Showing posts with label conditioning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label conditioning. Show all posts

Make it Yourself- Baby Balm

This past weekend I was at a show and was approached by a Grandma who needed some type of balm for her two year old Grandson's terrible skin. Fortunately I make a wonderful Baby Bum and Body Balm, so she was able to get that, but for those of you that want to make your own, here is a recipe for you to try! While it is not the same one I sell, it is a good one.

You will need;
1 cup olive oil
3 Tbs. dried lavender
1 Tbs. dried calendula
1 Tbs  rose petals or 3 Tbs dried rose petals
4 vitamin E capsules
1 1/2 tsp. jojoba oil*
8 Tbs. beeswax
4 drops lavender EO (optional)

You will need to grind 3 tablespoons of dried lavender, 1 tablespoon of dried calendula, and 1 tablespoon of rose petals (make sure that you use organic roses, ones not sprayed with pesticides or aroma enhancing chemicals. Know that most florists carry chemically treated roses!) into a powder, then place in a pan and cover with 1 cup of olive oil (do not use the extra virgin). Simmer the oil, making sure not to boil it or burn it, for at least an hour and a half. Remove from heat and strain the oil through a coffee filter, throwing away the botanical particles. Put your oil back into the pan and add in 8 tablespoons of beeswax, stirring until melted. Once the beeswax is melted, add in 1 1/2 teaspoons of jojoba oil and 4 drops of lavender essential oil (you may omit the EO if you want), then at the very last, puncture the vitamin E caps and squeeze the oil out and into the pan. Stir well.

When everything is mixed well, pour into a jar and leave sit until completely cooled. It will thicken as it cools. Once cooled, put the lid on the jar and store out of direct light, keeping from heat fluctuations as well. It should remain good for at least 6-8 months when properly stored.

*If you do not have any jojoba oil and do not want to purchase any (it is extremely expensive right now, when you can find it), you can add in another non-nut carrier oil, such as avocado oil or grapeseed oil, or just use additional olive oil, whichever you prefer.

What's Happening Wednesday- Hair Care Products and Recipes

As some of you may recall, I am currently working on liquid soap formulations, which include regular soap, shower gel and shampoos. When creating the shampoo recipes to test I began looking back over my previous hair care posts and essential oils and herbs that would benefit the hair. Of course yucca came right to mind, but what else? And what about the problems with hair? Just like the skin, many people have hair issues that need addressed. So....as I continue to work on great formulations, I thought I'd share some of my ideas and findings for this "What's Up Wednesday" post.


Rather than write a whole Teaching Tuesday post, here are some tips and information that I have found helpful to me. Hopefully some will benefit you too!


First and foremost, great hair comes from the inside out. So, for the basics of great hair care, you may want to visit/revisit this previous post.


Hair grows about one half of an inch a month. 
Scientific studies show that hair grows faster in warm weather.


Clay is both a deep cleanser and a great hair conditioner. It will remove dirt and hair care product residue from the hair shaft while it nourishes the scalp. You need to use a white clay, such as kaolin because other types and colors may be too harsh.


Coconut oil preserves the hair (as it does the skin), by covering it with a thin, sealing layer, one that holds, seals, in the moisture that is present.


If hair has been over-exposed to the sun and/or wind, use a deep conditioning treatment once a  week, preferably one with lavender and olive oil. Lavender has many nourishing and healing properties, and when its combined with olive oil, which improves the elasticity of the hair shaft,  you get nice, soft, and less likely to break hair. Plus, the lavender will also help decrease tension and alleviate headaches.


Don't have a desire to buy chemical products? Simple, just make yourself a mayo and avocado hair pack to deeply condition dry hair. The eggs and the oil in the mayo, as well as the avocado are highly conditioning and make this a very simple, yet highly effective hair treatment. For a recipe, look here!


For gray hair, split ends, and/or thinning hair, use sage leaves. Just crush 8 sage leaves and place in a small jar. Add 1/2 cup of boiling water and leave it sit for 30 minutes. Once time is up, strain it and reserve the liquid. Add 1 tablespoon of wheat germ and grapeseed oils to the liquid and mix well. Pour this into a dark colored bottle (to prevent light from reaching it and breaking it down). Rub a small amount into your hair and scalp, or onto split ends, then wrap in a towel and leave on hair for an hour, then shampoo as normal. It is preferable to apply the treatment to damp hair.


Light colored hair benefits from a mild shampoo. Calendula, Lemon peel, or Roman Chamomile are wonderful additives to castile soap for the perfect light colored hair shampoo.


Rosemary is a good additive for a shampoo intended for Dark hair.


Tea Tree is of benefit to those with dry and/or flaky scalps.


Dandruff is a common scalp condition that occurs when dead skin is shed, producing white skin flakes. It is frequently recommended to add a B-complex vitamin to your health care regimen. You can also use specially formulated shampoos or after shampoo rinses to help condition and heal the scalp. Visit or revisit this post for a recipe from guest author, Alyssa, and check back next Make it Yourself Monday, when I will be offering a few more!


For shampoo and conditioning recipes, look here.
For a detangler and a rinse recipe check out this post.

Frankly Speaking Friday- Hemp and Hemp Seed Oil


This weeks Franky Speaking Friday is all about the weed, the doobie, the blunt, and for you, um, slightly older folks, the J, the Mary Jane (now that's a dater isn't it?). Okay, the Pot plant, there I said it! Lol. We are going to learn all about the cannabis plant! Why? Because the cannabis plant seed oil is our next exotic oil! 


Commonly referred to as the marijuana plant, hemp seed oil is derived from the seeds of cannabis sativa. What everyone needs to understand, is that there is a difference between the hemp that is grown and the hemp that is smoked to get high. The cannabis sativa is the variety grown for industrial use, while cannabis sativa indica is what is smoked. The indica variety generally has poor fiber quality, and is primarily used for the production of recreational and medicinal drugs. While the difference between the two types of plants can be seen microscopically, the major difference is the amount of tetrahydrocannaninol that they possess. Commonly referred to as THC, this is the stuff that gets you high. The oil seed and fiber varieties of Cannabis, the ones that are approved for industrial hemp production, only produce minute amounts of THC, typically below 0.3% of the psychoactive drug that gets you high. While cultivars of Cannabis that are grown for smoking, called marijuana,  can contain anywhere from 6 to over 20% of THC.

The world's leading producer of hemp is  China, with smaller production in Europe, Chili, and Korea. In fact, hemp is legally grown in just about every country of the world, except for the USA. Yet, more hemp is exported to the United States, than to any other country in the world. The reason being, the US government does not consistently distinguish between the cultivars of cannabis, rather, it treats all cannabis plants the same, assuming they all are  high in THC.
Hemp has a tremendous commercial value. Aside from making a great food and cosmetic grade oil, hemp is also used to create sewing material, paper, textiles, biodegradable plastics, construction materials, alternative fuel, health food, and medical products. 

As a crop, hemp is very environmentally friendly. It requires little to no pesticides, no herbicides, and no fertilizers. It is extremely low maintenance, growing just about anywhere. It is an ideal crop for organic sustainable farming, unlike cotton, especially because it is so quick and easy to grow. Also,  it does not require pesticides or a warm climate, nor does it require much rainfall to produce a good crop. It is said that growing just a few acres of this plant yields 8 times more paper producing material than 2 acres of trees. Additionally, hemp grows to maturity within 4 months of its planting, where trees take many, many years. 

The seeds of the cannabis sativa plant, hemp seed, contain all the essential amino acids and essential fatty acids necessary to maintain a healthy, human life. No other single plant source has the essential amino acids in such an easily digestible form, nor has the essential fatty acids in as perfect of a ratio to meet human nutritional needs. This oil has the lowest amount of saturated fatty acids at 8%, and the highest amount of the polyunsaturated essential fatty acids at 80%, of any other oil. (Flax seed oil comes in second at 72% combined total essential fatty acids.) Hemp's nutritional advantage over other sources of fats and protein lies in this highly desirable balance of basic nutrients. Simply put, when eating hemp seed, nut and/or oil, our body obtains much of what it needs without the caloric ballast of non-essential nutrients. Yet, unlike fish and flax oil supplements and assorted protein powders, properly processed hemp seed offers these benefits with the additional bonus of a nice flavor profile. Simply stated, hemp tastes good! Fresh, cold pressed hemp oil, and hemp nuts, particularly when toasted, add a nice, nutty flavor to many dishes and pre- packaged food products.

Its seeds can be eaten raw, ground into a meal, sprouted, made into hemp milk (akin to soy milk), prepared as tea, and used in baking. The fresh leaves can also be eaten in salads. Products include cereals, frozen waffles, hemp tofu, and nut butters, to name a few. A few companies produce value added hemp seed items that include the seed oils, whole hemp grain (which is sterilized by law in the United States, where they import it from China and Canada), de-hulled hemp seed (the whole seed without the mineral rich outer shell), hemp flour, hemp cake (a by-product of pressing the seed for oil) and hemp protein powder. Hemp is also used in some organic cereals, for non-dairy milk, somewhat similar to soy and nut milks, and for non-dairy hemp "ice cream." Hempseed is an adequate source of dietary fiber, calcium, and iron, and contains antioxidants and chlorophyll. Whole hemp seeds are also a good source of phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, copper and manganese. In fact, hemp seed oil has specifically been shown to help with the following medical conditions;  Osteoporosis, Menopause, Cancer, Multiple Sclerosis, Rheumatoid arthritis, Premenstrual Symptoms, High cholesterol, high blood pressure, Weight loss, Poor circulation, Crohn's disease, Cardiovascular disease, Gall stones, Kidney degeneration, Immune deficiency, Irregular hormone levels, HIV virus, Tuberculosis, Low energy levels, and Low metabolism. And, in studies, adult users of hemp seed oil have also reported softer skin, stronger nails and hair after only a few weeks of using 1-2 Tablespoons of oil per day. 

Hemp seed and hemp seed oil is usually very safe for those unable to tolerate nuts, gluten, lactose, and sugar. In fact, there are no known allergies to hemp foods. However, in order to avoid conversion of the polyunsaturated fatty acids to unhealthy peroxides, which occur at higher temperatures, hemp oil and the hemp nut are both best used cold, it should never be fried. It may be easily added  to salad dressings, pasta, vegetables, smoothies, soups, sauces, hummus, guacamole, pesto, or other foods, after the heating/baking has been completed. If you must heat the oil, it may be gently heated for a short period of time.


Hemp seed oil is cold pressed and semi-refined by straining methods only (not heat methods), so the color is pretty light, similar to sweet almond oil. It holds a natural, medium (to light) odor that is distinctive, yet not unpleasant. As a cosmetic oil, hemp seed oil can be added to any body care or cosmetic product, including creams, lotions, facial or body oils, massage oils, shampoo, conditioner, shaving products, lip balms, soap, and just about any other product you can think of. The good percentage of proteins, natural fatty acids, vitamins and enzymes which the hemp seed oil possess, are easily absorbed through the skin, and as a result, any skin care formula made with this oil, will provide a more vitamin and mineral enriched product. Its anti-oxidants and moisture balancing properties help to heal and rejuvenate the skin, leaving it soft and non-greasy. It fights inflammation and protects the skin from moisture loss, acting as an emollient, all of which make it a great choice for any type of skin, but especially for sensitive skin issues. This oil is specifically known to help eczema, psoriasis, and acne, as well as dry scalp, and dry and/or damaged hair. 

When added to your cold process soap, the hemp seed oil will help to produce a stable lather, and  will leave the skin silky and smooth, even when only used to superfat a batch. As a base oil, you will need to keep its use to less than 40% of your total batch, in order to avoid too soft of a bar, but really, 20-30% is a better amount. Just keep in mind that, because of its low amount of saturated fats, hemp seed oil will spoil fairly quickly, keeping only for about 6-8 months. It is a sensitive oil that will degrade under excessive light exposure, and any fluctuation in temperature, therefore it must be kept in the refrigerator.

*See the Reference Link at the top of the page for references and bibliography for this and other posts.

  
  

















Teaching Tuesdays - Exotic oils Cont. Camelina

This next oil is not truly what should/would classify as an exotic oil. However, while it is quite a commonly grown and produced oil, it has long been over-looked by the skin-care industry. Why? I am not really certain. 

The Camelia plant was widely grown in Eastern Europe and Russia up to the early 1940's, and still had a quantity of production lasting into the 1950's, but then it was replaced, as canola (rapeseed) oil became known and better used. It has been suggested that the camelina plant, with its high content of unsaturated fatty acids (approx. 90%), may have been more difficult and more expensive to hydrogenate than the rapeseed. It can be speculated then, that this contributed to the camelina's decline as a popular crop.  

The camelina plant has a very long history, with documentation that dates it back to 600 BC. In fact, it was an important oil crop during the Bronze and Iron Ages. Although its gradual replacement during the Middle Ages and after is matter for speculation, what requires no speculation, is the reason for its  resurgence. This oils contents make it highly desirable and scientifically important.                                                                                   

Camelina oil, a member of the mustard seed family, botanically known as camelina sativa, is an underestimated oil, in fact, here in the US, and is often considered to be a weed. The Camelina plant itself is a small, annual shrub, which produces a tiny, pale yellow to greenish-yellow flower. The seeds of the flower are what is pressed for the oil, and the rest of the botanical material is often used for livestock feed. The plant needs very little water or nitrogen in order to flourish, and it can be grown on marginal agricultural lands, which is part of why it is often referred to as a weed. It does not, however, compete with food crops. 

It was grown for oil in the Mediterranean at least 2000 years ago, as well as in parts of Southeastern Russia. Nowadays, it is grown in Eastern Europe and Russia, as well as in the flax growing regions of the upper-Midwest United States, namely Montana. It has been traditionally cultivated as an oilseed crop, to produce vegetable oil and animal feed. It can be used as a rotation crop for wheat, which increases the soil health. It is often referred to as "false flax" because it is frequently found growing wild in the flax fields, and it has also been known as "false flax", "wild flax", "gold of pleasure", and "linseed dodder"


In the past, this oil was often used as the oil in oil in lamps, as well as feed for livestock. While it is still used in stock feed, recently, studies have begun to evaluate its effectiveness as a breast cancer treatment (namely the omega-3 acids that are found in the camelina oil). They are also examining  the use of camelina oil to increase the nutritional value of foods, especially breads, and spreads such as peanut butter. This plant is quite versatile and studies are sure to find many more health and nutritional benefits.

The gum layer that surrounds each camelina seed has been extracted, then added to other crop seeds, to coat the seeds and improve their germinating viability in challenging environments. Additionally, studies are showing that this gum has the potential to be used as a soil amendment, to stabilize exposed soil, and control erosion during road construction.

This plant is expeller pressed, and comes unrefined. It is a dark gold to dark olive colored oil, with a heavy herbaceous, green scent, and has a strong, nutty flavor, heavily resembling almond. because of this strong flavor, it makes a great salad and cooking oil, but it is a very popular additive for in animal food. In fact, it is said to have wonderful benefits for dogs, promoting healthy skin and a glossy coat. It can also be put directly onto their dry food,  and is quite tasty, according to Dallas and Gizmo! 

To spite being under appreciated in the body care industry, camelina oil  actually makes a very good addition to your skin care products formulary. To begin with, it has a very long and stable shelf life, lasting about two years. It contains about 64% polyunsaturated, 30% monounsaturated, and 6% saturated fatty acids. The main thing though, is that camelina oil has a 35-45% linoleic acid content. This is an omega-3 fatty acid, which is an essential acid, one that is necessary for good mental and physical health. Omega-3 fatty acids are generally only found in substantial, commercial quantities in linseed (flax) and certain fish meats, organs and oils. Since camelina oil is more flavorful and longer lasting than flax seed oil, and safer to consume than potentially [mercury] contaminated fish, and it is 10 times higher in fatty acids than other oils, it is quickly becoming the preferred source of omega-3 fatty acids.  

Because of its properties and cellular make-up, this oil can offer great anti-aging and emollient properties to your skin care products. The essential fatty acids help to repair skin cells, and improve the elasticity and suppleness of skin, making it a good choice for formulations geared toward maturing and/or sensitive skin. Additionally, it provides a protective coating for hair follicles, so it is also beneficial in your hair care formulations. 

 Unfortunately, due to it's under-appreciation in the recent past years, many  vendors are not familiar with this oil. I did find, however, that a few of my regular vendors do carry the oil, and, although they didn't offer usage rate recommendations, they did agree that this oil should be included in lip balms, creams, lotions, body butters and massage oils. In fact, they recognized it as  a "super oil for skin care". 

Whether for skin care, or for the other health benefits that this oil can provide, every article that I have read agrees, this oil has amazing properties. Properties that continue to be discovered and studied. This may very well be the oldest, new miracle oil, Lol!

*Remember to check out the reference page by cliking on the reference tab at the top of the page!   

























 Camelina, Emu, and Evening Primrose