Frankly Speaking Friday- Additive Definitions and Aloe Vera

With the exotic oils series completed, I have decided to follow up with a mini series of sorts. This one has to do with the various additives that we find in soaps and other cosmetics. Before we can do that though, we need to know the meanings of some words. So we will begin with the definitions, then we will start today with the Aloe Vera plant! 





A Preservative stops germs and molds from growing and spoiling your products,  making them unsafe to use. There are many preservatives, some work in water products, some  work in oil based ones, and some only work in certain ph ranges. Some preservatives are considered formaldehyde producing, while others (most) contain parabens.  This is an area of great debate and one that every user and creator should thoroughly investigate before deciding the best one for their product. For sure though, the alternative is not a pleasant one! 


Antioxidants delay fats (read the word "oil" here) from going rancid, thereby extending the shelf life of these products. Another plus is that they often  contribute some of their own properties to formulations they are added to. Vitamin E is one of the top natural antioxidants.


Emulsifiers allow for the incorporation/blending of ingredients, namely oils and liquids/water, and they also prevent separation.  


Colorants are just as they sound, ingredients used to make the product a color that it would not naturally be. These colorants can be natural, from the color of herbs, oils, and other additives, or the colorants can come from chemicals, such as FD&C colors (think along the lines of food coloring). There are also micas and oxides and other lab colors as well, but more on these another time. 




Herbal additives can be in the form of the herb itself (either the flowering part, or the leaves), the herb (root, leaves, or flowering portion) dried and ground into a powder, or either of these can be infused into the oils or water used in the recipe. 









So.....Here we go! The first additive I want to look at is a fairly common one, especially with summer here. It is the aloe vera, botanically known as, aloe barbadensis. This can be used straight from the plant, or you can purchase it in powder form, or as a juice or a gel, all of which come from the pulpy inside of the leaves. While the liquids generally last from 6 months to several years with proper preservatives, the powder has a shelf life of about two years.


While the aloe vera plant looks like a member of the cactus family, it really belongs to the lily family! The name actually comes from the Arabic word  alloeh, which means "bitter" , stemming from the bitter taste of the liquid that is found in its leaves.  The aloe vera is about 96% water, but it contains other active ingredients such as steroids, minerals, vitamins, essential oil, glycoproteins, amino acids and enzymes. Research has shown that the aloe vera gel penetrates human skin almost four times faster than water does. Therefore, it is a highly effective additive in moisturizers, shampoos & conditioners, soaps, and other products. It is also quite useful in the treatment of acne and other dermatological problems. The aloe vera gel, extract and oil is said to encourage skin rejuvenation, promote healing of various skin disorders including ulcers, lesions, and general wounds. They are effectively used to  treat burns, skin rashes, insect bites and chafed nipples (from breast feeding).
This additive is considered safe to use and is without any known side effects. Aloe vera is probably the most widely known and used additive. Many families even keep a bottle of aloe gel in the refrigerator year round, for sunburns and kitchen incidents. While its powdered form is frequently used in facials, body wraps, bath salts, milk baths, soaps, body scrubs and more.  

Tripod Thursdays

Here are some photos of my latest things, and it includes the UGLY soap that I mentioned yesterday. So how ugly is too ugly?

What's Happening Wednesday- Dead Sea Salts and Mud

I hope that everyone had a lovely Memorial day weekend! I apologize for not having a post the past few days, once again the auto-settings did not work, I guess I will give up on that feature! So what is happening this Wednesday? Well......business wise I only managed to get 3 batches of soap made this long weekend, and one of those really was a failed batch. It smells great, but it looks......well it looks like my Grandson played with his finger paints and ended up with soap. No, actually that is not quite true either, because I would love whatever his painting looked like, but this soap, well it is the ugliest thing I've ever made!


You may think that I am exaggerating, but I promise you, I am not! I was trying to "paint" a scenery picture by pouring various colors over a layer of uncolored soap. I had this lovely gardenesque type painting in mind, some grass on the bottom with splashes of color for flowers, a setting sky with several colors blue, pink, red, maybe some mountains in the background. Sounds lovely, right? Well it certainly didnt turn out that way! The colors began setting the soap faster than I could work for one thing, and the "glops" just didnt make a nice painted effect. Then, the coloring wasnt correct either, AND, on top of that,  it never dawned on me [before I began making it that is], that it would never look right when cut into bars, even if it did turn out pretty!


In my defense, I think the 90 degree heat here was boiling my brains or something, as the cabin doesnt have central air, and the window air conditioner wasnt in yet!  So the question now becomes, what on earth do I do with this ugly, smell good soap? LOL. My lovely friend who spurred me on with this experiment, thank you Cathy!,  has come up with a few ideas to salvage it, but I don't know that anyone would even want this as a sample. It is not really a soap I would feel comfortable offering to a charitable organization, nor can I imagine them accepting it! Lol. So here is my question.....I have participated in a "pay it forward" deal in one of my Etsy shops before. For those unfamiliar, this is basically am inexpensive deal. Usually the product is listed with the price being the cost of the listing fee (20 cents), and some people have the buyer also pay for  postage, others do not.At any rate,  I am wondering if this would be a good way to get rid of this failed batch. What do you think? Would you mind a truly ugly bar of soap if all it cost you was postage (actual postage not "and handling"!) and 20 cents?  Please, please make a comment of yea or nea, and any thoughts or ideas you have on the subject. I really need help here. I could just rebatch the whole deal, but I think it would still be ugly, because all of the colors would just be mixed together then.


Now, since I didnt get the Teaching Tuesday post up, I want to go ahead and share that with you now.
many have heard of the Dead Sea and its famous Salts and Mud, but many dont know WHY these products are good to use. So lets look at it, shall we?
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First of all, some background.


To begin with, as the name suggests, the Dead Sea is devoid of life, due to an extremely high content of salts and minerals. 
It lies some 400 m below sea level at the lowest point on the earth's surface, and is a part of the Syrian - East Africa Rift Valley, flanked by the Judean Mountains to the west and the Moab mountains to the east... Having no outlet, the Dead sea is a "terminal lake" which loses huge amounts of water by evaporation into the hot dry air. This results in high concentrations of salts and minerals, and in a quite unique composition too. The Dead Sea has up to a 33% concentration of salts and minerals, compared to only 3% in the ocean. It contains 10 times more salts and minerals than the Mediterranean Sea. 


While sodium chloride, common table salt, makes up about 80% of the total salt in sea water, the Dead Sea contains a considerably smaller amount of sodium chloride. This low percentage of sodium makes Dead Sea Salt gentle and less irritating to the skin. Dead Sea Salts are mostly made of magnesium, potassium, and calcium chlorides, as well as a high concentration of bromides. The water of the Dead Sea contains 21 minerals, twelve of which are not found in any  other ocean or sea. Some of these minerals are recognized for imparting a feeling of relaxation,  nourishing the skin, activating the circulatory system, and for easing rheumatic discomfort as well as metabolic disorders.  In fact, it has been clinically proven that Dead Sea Salt baths provide relief from Psoriasis when utilized in a recommended six week regimen of 3 baths per week for 20 minute per bath, for 6 weeks. It has also been studied and used (and shown) to improve  various skin ailments, such as; acne, eczema, skin rashes, and even dandruff. The salts and the mud have been shown to tighten the skin, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hydrate and moisturize the skin. They exfoliate dead skin cells and leave a more youthful complexion. They also improve the cell metabolism, thereby helping the body to absorb nourishment, as well as eliminate toxins. Health wise, bathing in the Dead Sea salts has been reputed to improve arthritis, bone and cartilage inflammation, rheumatism, reduce stress, fatigue and even sleeplessness. 


It is believed that the therapeutic properties of the Dead Sea are due, in large extent, to the presence of the other salts it contains, mainly those of magnesium, potassium and bromide. It is these natural elements which give the Dead Sea waters their curative powers. Dead Sea Salts, as well as Dead Sea Muds, have been recognized by millions of people as a single source of health and beauty since the days of Herod the Great, more than 2,000 years ago. Even the process by which they are obtained,  fractional evaporation and crystallization, actually serves to enrich the therapeutically valuable potassium and magnesium salts, while retaining all the other mineral elements of the Dead Sea. 


The Dead Sea brine's chemical composition reflects erosion, as well as the recycling of older deposits. Leaching of minerals from the geological strata also contributes to the Dead Sea brine and to a number of thermomineral springs along its shores. In addition, alluvial deposits form the much valued Dead Sea mineral mud, which is also known as Dead Sea therapeutic black mud. 


Products made with Dead Sea Salts and Minerals leave no oiliness on the surface of the skin, and they are equally effective in dry or moist atmospheres. They increase the moisture level and the permeability of the skin, which allows the minerals to penetrate into the deepest layers of the skin, replacing essential minerals which are necessary for retention of moisture and healthy cell growth. Dead Sea Salts mineral composition improves cell metabolism and contributes to its restoration and regeneration. It also acts as a disinfectant and helps in removing harmful substances from the skin. While the Dead Sea is an ideal destination for people seeking relief from rheumatic and skin disorders, as well as vacationers seeking relaxation, if you can't get there, you certainly can bring the Dead Sea's properties into your home bathtub, for relief or just for relaxation! 



Frankly Speaking Friday- Exotic Oils cont.- Wheat Germ Oil

We are finally at the end of the Exotic Oils series! The last one being Wheat Germ Oil. Now you may think that it is not all that exotic, but I hope to change your mind about it! So off we go....


Wheat Germ Oil, botanically known as Triticum vulgare, is an amber, brownish, to amber, pale yellow, depending upon whether or not it is refined. If it is unrefined it will posses a heavily nutty scent and taste, but that is not as pronounced if it is a refined oil.  This oil is cold pressed, and extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel, which, incidentally, only makes up 2 1/2% (by weight) of the kernel. The germ of a any cereal is the reproductive part, the one that germinates and grows into a plant, so it is the embryo of the seed. The oil in the wheat germ is what nourishes the plant embryo as it develops into a full grown plant. 


This oil is suitable for food or cosmetic use, but only for those without wheat or gluten allergies. It is an unrefined oil, and naturally contains high amounts of vitamins A, D, and E. It also contains vitamins B1, 2, 3, 6 and even vitamin F. It is also rich in essential fatty acids, (over 96%) proteins and minerals. Because of its richness, and because of the resulting regenerative and anti-oxidant properties, wheat germ oil is another wonderful addition to your cooking and your skin-care products.


On the skin, wheat germ oil serves as an emollient and natural moisturizing factor. Natural moisturizing factors mimic the function of healthy skin. They provide lubrication to the skin's surface, while they prevent the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Wheat germ oil also helps to stabilize the skin's inter-cellular structure, which prevents any surface irritation from going deeper into the skin. It also helps to keep bacteria out of the skin and bolsters the skin's immune and healing systems. In fact, a product called the Invisible Glove only lists three active ingredients, and one of those is wheat germ oil (benzoin extract and vegetable oil are the other two ingredients). The Invisible Glove is used to protect skin against chafing, irritation and dryness, and to protect hands from solvents and detergents. Nurses, outdoor workers, military personnel and bartenders, according to the product information sheet, use it as a barrier cream, applying it like a lotion before work.


As previously discussed, essential fatty acids are needed for our overall heath, and the health of our organs (skin is the largest organ we have). They are not produced by our body, so we must get them from dietary sources. Wheat germ oil is a simple, great dietary source. It can be taken alone, drizzled on top of salads, vegetables, pasta, pesto, or many other meals, just don't heat it or you will destroy all the great properties you are trying to get!


The essential fatty acids in the wheat germ oil will provide for health of the cardiovascular, immune, nervous, and reproductive systems, as well as the general health and maintenance of cells and bodily functions. It is, though, the vitamin E present in the Wheat Germ Oil that promotes skin cell formation, and is wonderful for nourishing and rejuvenating dry, mature, dehydrated, sunburned,  and damaged skin, as well as, reducing scars and stretch marks. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects, which may be beneficial medicinally as well as in your cosmetics. In addition to those already mentioned, wheat germ oil has been shown to be effective for the treatment of; cracked skin, eczema, psoriasis, tired and overexerted muscles, poor blood circulation, high cholesterol levels, and poor lymphatic function.


Generally speaking, wheat germ oil has a shelf life of anywhere from 6 months to 18 months, depending upon how its stored, and whether or not it is refined.
Because of its high vitamin E content, which is a natural antioxidant that  helps to prevent rancidity, this oil is often added to other carriers to help extend their shelf life, but on its own, wheat germ oil, especially the unrefined  oil, is very sensitive and will degrade quickly when it is exposed to extremes. This means that any fluctuation in temperature, light, or oxidization (which means exposure to oxygen/air) will adversely affect this oil, therefore it is better to keep it refrigerated. Many manufacturers prevent rancidity by storing the wheat germ oil in vacuum sealed glass containers because the glass prevents oxygen from passing through it like plastic containers. So storing your oil in a dark, glass bottle, with as little air space as possible, may be the best storage technique. However, some of the refined wheat germ oil I have come across now appears to have stabilizing additives, so you will need to double-check the recommendations of your oil's manufacturer. 


Remember, a good quality wheat germ oil will be viscous (thick) and fairly deep in color. The unrefined oil will also have a very noticeable taste and odor. For these reasons you will need to consider its usage amounts in your formulas. While it has great skin benefits, it is not really practicable to have a 100% wheat germ oil massage oil. But, I think that you will find that an  incorporation rate of 10-15% will provide all the awesome benefits of this oil in a manageable consistency. It is recommended that you use it between 5-15% in lotions and creams, 5-10% in balms, 5-8% in hair conditioners, and 5-10%   or one ounce ppo in bar soap recipes. While some of the good stuff won't survive the heat of saponification, many believe that some of it will. Given the cost of this oil though, you may wish to save it for your other cosmetic formulations. :) 


One more thing about wheat germ oil, it is also a great dietary supplement for your pets! It promotes a lustrous coat, as well as healthy skin. You can simply mix a few drops of it in with the pet food. Studies have shown that dry skin and dandruff are greatly reduced in pets, and this includes livestock. Some even claim that it has helped with their animal's dry, cracked skin, eczema, and psoriasis.     


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Tripod Thursdays- Yard Flowers and a few new soaps

Here are some yard flowers and plants, a bird that was carrying a large stick and a couple of new soaps. I had some more to get off my camera, but the charger has been misplaced and the battery is dead. So hopefully the fairies will bring it to me soon!

Tomorrow we will be finishing the exotic oils postings when we discuss Wheat Germ Oil. Now I know that this oil is not nearly as expensive as most we have talked about, but none the less, it is one that will make a great addition to your cosmetics and soaps!


Teaching Tuesdays - Exotic Oils Cont.- Tamanu Oil

Tamanu Oil, botanically known as Calophyllum inophyllum and/or Calophyllum tacamahaca, is a light green oil with a rich, deep odor. The oil is made from the odorless, pale kernel, called punnai, that comes from the fruit of the Tamanu tree. The Tamanu tree gets beautiful, fragrant, white flowers twice a year. Later these flowers yield clusters of yellow-skinned, spherical fruit, its pulp tasting similar to an apple. Inside that fruit is where the nut is found, and inside the nut is where the kernel is found. Once harvested, the kernel is dried out in the sun for two months, where it becomes quite sticky with the dark, thick, rich oil that eventually becomes Tamanu oil. While the kernels are drying they must be protected from the rain and from humidity, so this can be a labor intensive few months. Once they reach the proper stage, the sticky oil is then cold-pressed to make the greenish yellow oil, similar in appearance to olive oil, that we know as Tamanu oil. It will take 220 pounds of the Tamanu fruit, which is about what one tree will produce annually, to yield just 10.4 pounds of cold pressed oil. This yield disparity is an important factor in the cost of this exotic oil. Currently that price is running at $130.00 per liter, and a liter is about 33.8 ounces, so that is roughly $3.85 an ounce. Not as high as some essential oils, but a lot when you figure how much oil goes into some products! 

The Tamanu tree is indigenous to tropical Southeast Asia, and is found in Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, Malaysia, South India, Sri Lanka, and the Melanesian and Polynesian islands. Historically, natives believed that the Tamanu tree was a sacred gift of nature, with gods hiding in its branches. This tree was their answer to skin protection from the ocean winds, high humidity and hot sun. As far back as the 18th century it has been documented that native Jamaicans used Tamanu oil to treat sores and wounds.  

Today, Indonesians soak the leaves in water, creating a blue solution that they give internally in cases of heat stroke. They also use this solution to (topically) treat inflamed eyes.    
In New Guinea the leaves are softened by heating over a fire, then they are applied to skin sores, ulcerations, boils, cuts and pimples. 
On Dobu Island the leaves are boiled and the solution is used to wash skin rashes.
In the Phillipines they soak the leaves in water and use the solution to treat hemorrhoids. They mix the sap with sulfur and make an ointment that they use on open sores, wounds, and boils.  

Fiji natives use Tamanu oil to treat  joint pains, arthritis, bruises, oozing wounds, chapped lips and even to preventing diaper rash. In the 1920s, Sister Marie-Suzanne, a nun stationed in Fiji, topically applied Tamanu oil to leprosy victims with positive results.
In fact, in most south sea islands it is utilized as an analgesic for sciatica, rheumatism and ulcers.
Pacific islanders apply Tamanu oil to scrapes, cuts, burns, insect bites and stings, acne and acne scars, psoriasis, diabetic sores, anal fissures, sunburn, dry or scaly skin, blisters, eczema, diaper rash and herpes sores--and even to reduce foot and body odor!

 Tamanu oil has anti-inflammatory properties, accelerates healing, promotes new tissue formation and healthy skin growth, reduce rashes, treats sores and abrasions. It’s pain-relieving properties have also been used to treat and relieve the pain of neuralgia and shingles. 

In fact, in Europe, sometimes called Domba oil, tamanu oil has a proven 70 to 75 percent success rate in alleviating rheumatism and scabies.  It’s also proven  effective as a gout and ringworm treatment, and can be applied to lesions of the mucous membranes.  It is known to heal chapped skin, post-surgical wounds, skin allergies, bed sores, wounds, rashes, abrasions, athlete’s foot, boils, cracked skin, and infected nails. It has even healed severe burns caused by boiling water, chemicals and X-rays.  

Tamanu oil possesses powerful bactericide and fungicide agents, and has proven antimicrobial qualities as well. This oil tests well against antibiotics in the treatment and relief of; bladder infections, wound infections, pneumonias, septicemia, conjunctivitis, infected burns, athletes foot, ring worm, jock itch, Madura Foot, urinary tract infections, and the cause of diphtheria. Additionally, Tamanu oil has been used to affectively reduce the appearance of stretch marks and scars. In one study test subjects with scars a year old applied this oil twice daily (and only this oil) for nine weeks. After six weeks there was significant improvement in the appearance of the scars, and after the full nine weeks,  the scar length was reduced by an average 0.28 centimeters, and width was reduced by an average 0.12 centimeters.    

This oil will store well under any conditions, but extreme heat will tend to lessen its shelf life. With proper storage it should last from 10-14 months. Given its high cost, this is probably not an oil that you would want to add into your soaps, but it does make a fine addition to your medicine cabinet and skin care formulary. It does have a pretty strong aroma though, so you will need to take this in consideration when developing your products. Also, the coloring may alter your cosmetics as well, so some experimentation is probably in line. The good news is that this oil is suitable to used directly on the skin, or mixed with other carrier oils, so your imagination is the only limit! 



Make It Yourself Monday- Aches and Pains Remedies

After weeks of daily rain, we here in the Buckeye state finally had a nice, sunny, 80 degree day. Yea! The problem? Many of the neighbors took the opportunity to work in their yards. While that is a good and necessary thing, the resulting muscular aches and pains is not. So today we will be making some massage oils for those stiff, achy muscles!

Please remember that before using ANY product that contains Essential Oil you should do a patch test. Take a small amount of the product and rub it into the inside of elbow. If it doesnt immediately irritate your skin, cover it with a band-aide and leave it for 24 hours. If after that time it still hasnt caused an irritation, then use the product with caution. If it does begin to bother you, wash the area with soap and water and do NOT use that product. If you are testing a single Essential oil, remember that you need to put one drop of the EO into a small amount of carrier oil before you test it. NEVER test an EO neat on the skin. There are [only] a couple of EO's that can be used neat, but you must have the proper education to do so, and even then, sensitivities can happen. When they do, they are life-long, so the safest thing to do is to simply not try it!


This first muscle rub is especially nice the day after a strenuous workout, when the muscles may be tight and sore. All you need to do is to mix all the ingredients together, then massage into the affected area(s).

1 drop Eucalyptus Essential Oil
1 drop of Peppermint Essential Oil  
2 drops Rosemary Essential Oil  
4 drops Lavender Essential Oil (I use Bulgarian lavender)  
2 oz of your choice of Carrier Oil   (Many people like sweet almond oil, apricot seed oil, soybean or jojoba)
 

This mixture is also good for aches and pains;

 1 drop Lavender EO
 1 drop Cypress EO 
 2 drops Black Pepper EO
 1/2 oz your choice of carrier oil
 

This one is great for backaches and other muscular stiffness;
 4 drops Marjoram (Organic is best) EO
 2 drops Ginger EO  
 4 drops Rosemary EO
 4 drops Lavender  EO  
 5 oz your choice of carrier oil
This one can be made with less carrier oil for a stronger ointment, but you will need to check for skin sensitivity with each adjustment. This should only be used twice a day, whatever strength you use.