Showing posts with label skin conditioning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label skin conditioning. Show all posts

Teaching Tuesday- Sea Buckthorn Oil



I just reformulated my facial serum to include meadowfoam seed oil and Sea Buckthorn, so I thought we'd review the benefits of sea buckthorn oil in today's Teaching Tuesday post. To view more information about Meadowfoam seed oil, see this previous post.

Sea Buckthorn's botanical name is Hippophae rhamnoides. It is a shrub that grows anywhere from one and a half feet tall to twenty feet tall, but some of the plants in central Asia have been known to reach as high as thirty-three feet. While the plant is native to Russia, Mongolia and China, over ninety percent of the world's sea buckthorn plantations are located in China, where the plant is used for soil and water conservation, as much as its fruit.  In the last twenty years experimental crops of sea buckthorn have been grown in Canada and a few US states, thanks to the efforts of Russian and East German horticulturists who worked to develop new varieties of sea buckthorn. These new cultivars have different ripening months, larger berries, more nutritional value, and branches that make harvesting easier. 

Sea buckthorn oil is extracted by cold pressing the entire fruiting body, the seeds and the berries of this shrub. Getting to the fruit to harvest it though, is fairly difficult because there is a pretty dense arrangement of thorns all around the berries on each branch. One harvesting technique is to remove the entire branch and freeze it, making it easy to then shake off the berries. This does help to avoid the thorns while getting at the berries, but it is destructive to the shrub, and it reduces future harvests as well.  

It takes about ten pounds of the thorn surrounded berries to produce just one pound of oil. Because of the labor intensive harvest, as well as the amount of berries needed to produce a small amount of oil, this cost of this oil is on the pricey side. Most would say though, its benefits are worth the cost. 

The oil itself is fairly viscous, a syrupy consistency. It comes in a deep amber to a nice red color palate. It is liquid at room temperature, but when it gets cold it tends to solidify. When  properly stored, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight, it generally has a shelf life of about two years. This oil is one that must be used diluted though, as it will stain clothing, counter tops and even your skin when undiluted. 

Sea buckthorn oil contains about fifteen times more vitamin C than an orange, a very high amount of vitamin E, beta carotene, anti-oxidants, carotenoid, and contains many other vitamins, minerals and fatty acids. The fruit of the sea buckthorn, the berries, are edible, but are pretty acidy and oily, so they aren't very tasty. But since they are ultra high in nutrients, they make a super food, and used in many foods. In fact, the fruit is quite popular overseas, where you will find it in jellies, jams, pies, liquors, even baby food, as well as lotions and other skin care products.  By using just one part sea buckthorn to five parts water and sweetening to taste, you can blend it, strain it, and have an orange or peach tasting juice, with more vitamins than the other fruits would provide. When you allow the berries to frost (called bletting) before gathering them, the cold helps to decrease the tartness enough that they can be eaten raw, however most people still think they are better when mixed into a juice, with other juices, or made into other products. 

The sea buckthorn has long been recognized as a wonderful skin repairing, skin regenerating and skin conditioning oil. It has been used to heal wounds, burns, lesions, eczema, abrasions, wounds, and to repair sun damage and other skin injuries for centuries. In fact, its amazing skin healing properties have led to (further) studies which support the use of this oil internally for healthful purposes. Generally speaking the recommendation is to take 2000-2500 mg daily (in capsules), or one tablespoon of raw oil daily in order to promote healthy blood circulation, as a soothing agent for the gastro- intestinal tract, or to treat colitis, stomach ulcers. More studies are needed, but they are currently exploring the benefits of this oil for treating inflammatory disorders, certain cancers, and even for improving the health of bone marrow after chemotherapy. 

File:Hippophae rhamnoides.jpgFor centuries, this shrub has been used to relieve coughs, aide digestion, alleviate pain, and invigorate blood circulation. It has been used to treat diarrhea and dermal disorders. It has been taken orally and applied topically. It has also been added to medications for pulmonary, gastrointestinal, cardiac, blood and metabolic disorders in Indian, Chinese and Tibetan medicines. So, while we may use it primarily for its skin benefiting properties, the other implications certainly bare more investigation. 









Make it Yourself- Baby Balm

This past weekend I was at a show and was approached by a Grandma who needed some type of balm for her two year old Grandson's terrible skin. Fortunately I make a wonderful Baby Bum and Body Balm, so she was able to get that, but for those of you that want to make your own, here is a recipe for you to try! While it is not the same one I sell, it is a good one.

You will need;
1 cup olive oil
3 Tbs. dried lavender
1 Tbs. dried calendula
1 Tbs  rose petals or 3 Tbs dried rose petals
4 vitamin E capsules
1 1/2 tsp. jojoba oil*
8 Tbs. beeswax
4 drops lavender EO (optional)

You will need to grind 3 tablespoons of dried lavender, 1 tablespoon of dried calendula, and 1 tablespoon of rose petals (make sure that you use organic roses, ones not sprayed with pesticides or aroma enhancing chemicals. Know that most florists carry chemically treated roses!) into a powder, then place in a pan and cover with 1 cup of olive oil (do not use the extra virgin). Simmer the oil, making sure not to boil it or burn it, for at least an hour and a half. Remove from heat and strain the oil through a coffee filter, throwing away the botanical particles. Put your oil back into the pan and add in 8 tablespoons of beeswax, stirring until melted. Once the beeswax is melted, add in 1 1/2 teaspoons of jojoba oil and 4 drops of lavender essential oil (you may omit the EO if you want), then at the very last, puncture the vitamin E caps and squeeze the oil out and into the pan. Stir well.

When everything is mixed well, pour into a jar and leave sit until completely cooled. It will thicken as it cools. Once cooled, put the lid on the jar and store out of direct light, keeping from heat fluctuations as well. It should remain good for at least 6-8 months when properly stored.

*If you do not have any jojoba oil and do not want to purchase any (it is extremely expensive right now, when you can find it), you can add in another non-nut carrier oil, such as avocado oil or grapeseed oil, or just use additional olive oil, whichever you prefer.

Frankly Speaking Friday- Illipe Butter

Although illipe butter is hard, and not liquid, it is still quite exotic, so I decided to add it into this series of posts, I hope you will indulge me! 


Illipe butter comes from the nuts of the shorea stenoptera which is a tropical tree that grows in southeast Asia, Borneo and Sumatra. The tree grows from 16 to 49 feet tall, and has two inch seeds which are enclosed in a thin shell, with wing-like attachments, similar to the whirly birds of maple and elm trees.
It flowers October through January, and after the nuts fall to the ground, never before, they are gathered by natives and set to dry in the sun. Once dried, the shells are placed in rice mortars where they are pounded with the pestles until the seeds break away from the hard shell. From there the whole nut, which is the seed, is sent to be rendered where it is cold pressed. The resulting butter is a hard creamy white to light yellow color, with a slight, nutty odor. The locals have been making butter from the illipe nuts for countless centuries, traditionally using it for both therapeutic and cosmetic purposes.

Illipe butters chemical composition parallels that of cocoa butter, and it has nearly the same triglyceride composition, but it is lighter and has a [slightly] higher melting point. This butter, which  is quite hard at room temperature,  melts quickly and easily when it comes in contact with the skin.  And, while it may be this high melting point that makes it a prized ingredient for soaping (as it creates a nice hard bar of soap), surely it is its skin benefiting properties that make it  prized for cosmetic applications.  

Illipe butter  is probably most renown for its skin softening quality, but it also has long-lasting moisturizing attributes. It  restores the skins elasticity, helps to reinforce its natural moisture barrier, reduces the degeneration of skin cells while restoring their flexibility and elasticity, and prevents drying which leads to the development of wrinkles. Illipe butter is used in a variety of sun protection and skin care products, as well as massage creams, soaps, balms, make-up foundations, and hair conditioners. It is beneficial for the treatment of numerous skin and hair disorders, especially chronically dry skin, mature skin, sunburn, sores, damaged skin, and mouth ulcers.

Illipe butter has a shelf life of two years, but it should be kept in a dark, cool location, away from moisture. You may use anywhere from 3 to 100% in your lip stick, lip and body balms, creams, lotions, hair conditioners, make-up foundations, and hard soap recipes. Try this exotic butter in your soap for not only a firm bar, but a highly moisturizing one. But for a real treat, use it directly on the skin, without any additives. You won't need much, because a very little goes a very long way!




*Reminder; references and bibliographies for informational posts are available by following the reference tab at the top of the page