Teaching Tuesday-Toners and Astringents

Last week I was asked to recommend products that would help to form the base of a good facial cleansing program. So guess what today's post is all about? You got it, face care! 


It has been a few years since we've discussed it in depth, so I will begin by reiterating that there are five steps to the perfect facial skin care regimen. Number one, you must cleanse the skin properly to rid it of makeup, dirt and excess oil see this post for recipes for non-soap cleansers. Number two, is to steam.  A good steam [which could be just a good hot, in the shower steam] opens the pores and increases the blood circulation in the facial capillaries, as well as deep cleansing the skin check this post out. for more about steams. Step three is using a mask or a peel to further remove residue, that which lies deep in the pores. They also nourish the skin, as well as replenishing it with essential vitamins and minerals. For more about masks, look here and here. Step four is the toner. A toner tightens the pores and prepares it to accept the final step, the moisturizer. The moisturizer replenishes the skin with fluid, and also provides it with a fine layer of protection. For more tips on the basics of face care check this old post.

So, let's go back and look at step four, since this is the one that usually trips up most people. Toners are skin care products that work to balance the PH of the skin, close the pores, remove excess dirt that was missed during the cleansing phase, and soothe irritated skin. As previously stated, toners are used after cleansing and before moisturizing. Generally speaking, toners can be used by any of the eight skin type categories (those being; dry, mature, oily, combination, normal, sensitive, sun damaged, and acneic, which means acne.


Astringents and toners are not interchangeable words, or treatments. Even though they are frequently used to mean the same thing by the unknowing, they are really two different skin care products, with two different end purposes. Astringents are similar to toners, in that they are used at the same time in the facial care process, and they both act to close the pores. An astringent though will not necessarily soothe irritated skin. It will, however, remove the dirt, debris, and excess oil that is found in oily or acneic skin types. The rest of the properties of the astringent depend upon the ingredient that is being used for the "astringent" action. 


Commercial astringents rely on alcohol to provide the astringent properties, which tend to excessively dry out the skin, and can even damage skin cells. On the other hand, organic skin care makers, such as myself, utilize witch hazel to create the astringent properties. Witch hazel, botanically known as Hamamelis Virginiana, is a deciduous shrub that is native to eastern North America, from Nova Scotia west to Minnesota, and south to central Florida and eastern Texas. Interestingly, its forked twigs are the preferred diving rod! But for the purpose of skin care, the leaves and the bark are used to create an extract, and you can find it in your local pharmacy, just look for witch hazel. 


Witch hazel has been used medicinally for centuries. Among other things, it is frequently used to treat insect bites, poison ivy, varicose veins, hemorrhoids (and is found in many commercial hemorrhoid preparations) ingrown toenails, to prevent facial sweating, as an aftershave, and as a natural remedy for psoriasis, eczema, and cracked or blistered skin. Witch hazel reduces swelling, has antiseptic properties, and while being a strong anti-oxidant and astringent, also acts to soothe the skin, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. And much more skin friendly than alcohol.


Because of the alcohol, commercial astringents are harsh, and can strip the skin of its natural PH balance, not to mention that they tend to sting when applied. Because historically the majority of astringent products have been,  made with alcohol, astringents have gained a bad reputation in the skin care world. Today, however, there is a movement toward more natural ingredients being included in skin care products. Not just the products that Indie companies make either, but some of the larger companies, seeing the swing toward natural, are beginning to incorporate some natural ingredients into their lines as well. You will still need to be vigilant when choosing a commercial brand, because many times they play up the one natural ingredient they have, only to hide several nasty ones. So make sure that you read the labels and know what those words mean. Remember, not all long words are bad ingredients. For example,  butyrospermum parkii  is the official name for shea butter, so do some research!


Now, back to toners and astringents. Unless you have very oily skin, are having an acne flare up, or are in need of a deep cleansing, you generally do not need an astringent, instead you should choose a toner. Even if you need the astringent, as soon as the need has past, change to a toner. 
That being said, with some Indie formulations you can manage to get a product that will offer the best of both worlds for your skin type. Of course this depends upon the sensitivity of your skin, the severity of your skin problems, and the knowledge level of your Esthetician. So again, research is extremely important.

If you have combination skin, or have problem "spots", you can always use an astringent on just those areas where it is needed, by applying with a q-tip or cotton ball, or you could always use the astringent in the mornings and the the toner at night, or the astringent on odd days and the toner on even ones. However it works best for you. With time and experimentation, you will discover what works best for you. Keep in mind though, the seasons and your activities will also play a part in your skin care needs. The harsh elements of Winter, forced air heating, cold, wind, and lack of sunshine, tend to dry out the skin. So switching to a mild toner is usually most beneficial, regardless of your skin type. 

Here are some recipes for toners and astringents       Here are some for moisturizers  

Make it Yourself Monday-Bath Salt Recipes

Here are a few quick and easy Bath Salt Recipes. Great for soaking away tensions after a long, hard day at work, or for easing the muscle aches of exercise. Whatever your reason, be sure to find one and enjoy a nice long soak!


Balancing Bath Soak


3 Tbs. Dead Sea Salts
3 Tbs. Baking Soda
8 drops Essential Oil of choice from the following list, or a blend of 3 or 4 of these oils, totaling the 8 drops. Use bergamot, geranium, lavender, palmarosa, rose and/or rosewood.


Buttermilk Bath 


1 cup your choice of bath salts (European, Dead Sea, Epsome or other specialty salt)
1 cup powdered buttermilk (get this at your local grocery store in the baking isle)
up to 24 drops of your choice of essential oils


Mix the bath salt and buttermilk powder together in a jar and add up to 24 drops of essential oil, or a blend, totaling no more than 24 drops of EO's into that jar. Cover and shake, shake, shake, blending well. Keep it sealed in the jar for several days before using, continuing to shake and blend daily. Store in the sealed jar when not opening for use. To use, pour 1/2 cup into your bath water and allow to dissolve before getting into tub. So this recipe makes 4 baths! 


Dreamy Soak


2 cups Dead Sea Salts
2 Tbs baking soda
5 drops rosewood Essential Oil
2 drops cedarwood EO
2 drops chamomile EO


Mix the salts and the baking soda in a bowl. Blend it very well. Then mix the oils in a small cup. Once mixed, take them and pour them evenly over the salt mixture, then blend very well. Let this mixture sit for at least one hour before placing in a jar and sealing. 

Fur Friendly Friday

My computer has crashed, so I am on a borrowed one, which means that I don't have access to all of my research. So, rather than look into more, I am offering you a dog treat recipe today! This is one that comes to you taste tested by Dallas, and has been certified paw-licking and tail waggin' great!


Blueberry Peach Cookie


4 weeks whole wheat flour
1 cup water
2 Tbs. flax seed
1/3 cup blueberries
3 Tbs. finely chopped peaches
2 Tbs. canola oil
2 Tbs. honey
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 lg. egg


Combine the flax seed, flour and cinnamon in a bowl. In a food processor, combine the water, blueberries, peaches, honey, oil, egg, and vanilla and puree until it is smooth. Once smooth, pour it over the dry ingredients and stir until it is well mixed. Knead the dough, then roll it out to about 1/8" thickness. Poke holes over the surface with a fork, then using a pizza cutter or knife, cut it into bite sized rectangles or squares. Bake it for 20 minutes at 350 degrees, and then allow it to cool completely. Then decrease the temperature to 300 degrees and bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until they are hard. Serve when completely cooled. These can be stored in an airtight container for up to 30 days, or frozen for six months. If you freeze them, make sure that you completely thaw them out before serving to your dog or else they can be injured. Thawing usually takes about 30 minutes.   


  

Teaching Tuesdays - The Agave Plant

Agave, stemming from the Greek word agauos, meaning of kings and heros, illustrious, noble. This plant was likely taken back to Europe by Spanish and Portuguese explorers, but the plants became popular [in Europe] during the 19th century, when many types were imported by collectors. Some have been continuously propagated by offset since that time, and do not even resemble any species known in the wild.  


There are well over 300 species of Agave that have been described, but only about 200 that are currently recognised. It is a common misconception that agaves are cacti. In fact, they are not related to the cacti, nor are they closely related to the Aloe plant, whose leaves are similar in appearance. Although it is important to know how to handle this plant, and which species is which since the  juice from many species can cause acute contact dermatitis. It will create reddening and blistering of the skin that lasts from one to two weeks, and episodes of itching, even though there is not a visible rash, may reoccur up to one year after contact!  The irritation is, in part, caused by calcium oxalate raphides. While dried parts of the plant can be handled with the bare hands,  without any effects, if the skin is pierced deeply enough by the needle-like ends of the leaf, (from a vigorously growing plant), it can cause the blood vessels in the surrounding area to erupt and cause bruising in an area 6–7 cm across. This can last from two to three weeks, so you beter exercise caution and know which plant you are messing with!  


The Agave plants are perennial, and most flower only once, then die, which is refered to as monocarpic. They grow quite slowly, eventually reaching the flowering stage. During flowering, a tall stem or "mast" grows from the center of the leaf rosette and bears a large number of shortly tubular flowers. After development of fruit, the original plant dies, but prolific vegetative growth, and offsetting at the base of the plant usually maintains a clump of plants, thus compensating for loss of the flowering rosettes. These suckers which are frequently produced from the base of the stem, grow and become new plants. However, there are a few species that remain solitary, and rely on seed production for survival of the species. There are even a few species that can even flower several times during their life.  Whatever their growth habit, this plant is commonly referred to as the century plant, since it takes so long to flower. Many species of Agave produce musky perfume scents as attractants for bats, which pollinate them, but others produce sweeter odors, ones that attract insects which pollinate and propagate them. So species is quite a distnction for this plant. 


Chiefly Mexican, agaves are also native to the southern and western United States, as well as central and tropical South America. While Agave leaf fiber was used by natives, it is still of commercial importance today, being used to make clothing and rugs. The best quality fibres, coming from the youngest of the leaves. 


Additionally, carbohydrates, which are stored in the core of several species of Agave, were fermented by the natives to make a beverage that they used in ceremonies, called pulque, which is still enoyed today. Distillation of a similar ferment, made from the developing Agave flower bud, is the basis for the modern production of Mezcal. The best known mezcal is tequila. The agave flower shoot is cut out, the sap collected, then fermented. By distillation, the mezcal is prepared. In 2001, the Mexican Government and the European Union agreed upon the classification of tequila, and its categories. All 100% blue agave tequila must be made from the Weber blue agave plant, to rigorous specifications, and only in certain Mexican states.

The Blue Agave Americana occur in abundance in the Karoo, and arid highland regions of South Africa. Introduced by the British settlers in 1820, the plant was originally cultivated and used as emergency feed for livestock, but today is used [mainly] for the production of syrup and sugar. In fact, in ancient times, the bruised leaves afforded a paste from which paper was manufactured, its leaves supplied an impenetrable thatch for the more humble dwellings; thread, of which coarse stuffs were made, and strong cords, were drawn from its tough and twisted fibers; pins and needles were made from the thorns at the extremity of its leaves; and the root, when properly cooked, was converted into a palatable and nutritious food. In short, the agave was meat, drink, clothing, and writing materials, all the way back to the Aztecs! 


There are four major parts of the agave that are edible: the flowers, the leaves, the stalks or basal rosettes, and the sap which is called aguamiel, or honey water.  Each agave plant will produce several pounds of edible flowers during its final season. The stalks, which are ready before the blossom, during the summer, weigh several pounds each. When roasted, they are sweet and can be chewed to extract the aguamiel, which is like sugarcane. When dried out, the stalks can then be used to make didgeridoos. The leaves can be collected for eating in the winter and the spring, when the plants are rich in sap. As previously mentioned, some species are the source of pita fiber, and used as a fiber plant in Mexico, the West Indies and southern Europe.
Agave nectar (also called agave syrup), is a sweetener derived from the sap, and is used as an alternative to sugar in cooking. It  can also be added to breakfast cereals as a binding agent. 


People have found a few other uses of the plant aside from its several uses as food. When dried and cut in slices, the flowering stem forms natural razor strops. Natives of Mexico have used the agave to make pens, nails and needles, as well as string to sew and make weavings. Leaf tea or tincture taken orally is used to treat constipation and excess gas. It is also used as a diuretic. Root tea or tincture is taken orally to treat arthritic joints. 
Also, the expressed juice of the Agave leaves will lather in water, much like soap, so historically, it has been, and still is, used as a soap substitute, as well as a natural insecticide for plants. This sap is also used medicinally to treat burns, as it has a natural antiseptic quality. And water in which the agave fibre has been soaked for 24 hours, makes a great scalp conditioner. 


This plant, depending upon the variety, is almost like a wonder plant. From it, many foods and products can, and are being made. I really suggest that you check this one out in greater depth! 


For some pictures of many varieties, check out this web site;  http://www.succulent-plant.com/families/agavaceae.html

Make It Yourself Monday-Hair Care Recipes

I had a few more recipes for hair care than I was able to include the week we were concentrating on it, so that is what this Make it Yourself Monday post is about.....Hair care Recipes! I hope you make and enjoy them!




Here is a natural hair detangler that is similar to no more tangles. This one was found on a forum board, but no author was noted.
You will need;
8 oz. distilled water
1 tsp. aloe vera gel
1-2 drops glycerin
1-2 drops essential oil of choice
15 drops Grapefruit seed Extract

Mix everything together and put into a spray bottle. Shake well before each use. Spray onto hair and use just like the name brand. I suggest a lavender and rosemary EO blend, 1 drop of each will do. I also prefer 2 drops of glycerin, but try it and see what your preference is.



Hair Rinse 

You will need; 1 heaping Tbsp of each [dried] herb that is listed for your type of hair. 
For dry hair;  chamomile, nettle, comfrey root and elder flowers. 
For oily hair; lemon peel, lemongrass, and peppermint. 
For normal hair; nettle, elder flowers, rosemary, and burdock root.
1 quart boiling water 
And finally, here is an easy herbal shampoo recipe to whip up. Take 
3 oz Liquid Castile Soap
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar


The first thing you need to do is to make an infusion [tea] of the herbs, making sure to steep at least 30 minutes [do not boil the herbs]. Once completed, strain, keeping the liquid and tossing the plant material. Then add the vinegar to the infusion and pour the mixture over your hair. Be extremely cautious to keep this out of your eye [rinse with clean water repeatedly if you don get into the eyes, seek medical attention if you feel it necessary]. Catch the run-off mixture in a bowl,  and use it to pour over the hair repeatedly. You will get the benefits of the herbs as the vinegar seals the hair cuticle, making the hair soft, shiny, and less tangled. Use this after each shampoo.

 Then finally, here is an easy to whip up, herbal shampoo. You will need; 3oz. of pure Castille liquid soap (make sure that the ingredient label lists only olive oil  on it), one heaping Tbs. of the following dried herbs; chamomile, sage, nettle, rosemary and lavender, some jojoba oil (this is for extra conditioning, you may leave it out if you wish), 2 drops of rosemary and lavender essential oils, and boiling water. 

Mix the herbs together in a bowl and add enough of the boiled water to cover them.  Cover and let steep for at least 30 minutes. Pour the Castile soap into the bottle of your choice. Once the steeping is complete, strain the herbs, discard the plant material and reserve the liquid. Using a funnel, add the herbs into the soap bottle, then add a few squirts of jojoba oil and the essential oils. Seal and shake well. Make sure to shake well before each use, so that you  will mix the oil with the soap. This shampoo will be very runny, but it will also be very concentrated, so use only a small amount when shampooing. 

What's Up Wednesday - Stomp Out Some Good Summer Foot Care Recipes

Aside from attending my Grandson's first birthday party where, after several days in the high 90's, it stormed and poured down rain on a shelter house full of guests, the only thing I have been up to is the same old, same old. Making soap, visiting forums, and writing about eo's for the book. The only twist, this week I used a couple of plastic containers [that used to hold instant drink mixes] to make some guest size soaps. It was a small batch to try out a sample fragrance,  pinenut and blossoms, and I used annatto seed and spirulina for the coloring. Other than having to cut the container to unmold, as I was too impatient to try and wait it out, they came out quite nicely. The fragrance will probably be a limited edition because I don't see me purchasing it, but these sample /guest size soaps are kind of cute, and what a great way to recycle!

This is the finished soap

From these containers

As a follow up to yesterdays post. I wanted to provide you with some recipes. The first one is not only great for your feet, but is a perfect way to utilize some of your fresh lavender. Don't have any? You can purchase it from several on line sources, or local growers! 

LAVENDER WASH

You will need 1/2 cup of dried lavender flowers, 1/2 cup of fresh sage that is finely chopped, 2 cups of water, and 8 drops of lavender essential oil. In a pan, add the lavender and sage to the water, cover and simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes. When time is up, strain the infusion through a cheesecloth, toss the solids, and  allow the liquid to cool. Once cooled, add the essential oil and then pat onto your feet (this is great for the hands too). You can repeat as frequently as you like. This recipe is great for relieving tired, swollen, achy, red  feet.  

You can also easily turn the lavender wash into a foot soak, or substituting any other herbs or herbs of your choice, and enjoy as you soak your cares away. Simply take 2 cups of fresh herbs or 1 cup of dried herbs and steep in 2 gallons of boiling water for 20 minutes. Strain the liquid and toss the plant material when time is up. Allow to cool slightly, then place into a foot tub and soak your feet for 20 minutes, then pat dry. 

Foot soaks are easy to prepare and ideal for sore, tired and/or swollen  feet. Try using one of the following, or a combination of your favorites; comfrey, elderberry, pine, rosemary, chamomile or sage.

To pull the impurities from the skin, restore minerals (directly into the skin), and gently exfoliate at the same time, try the Green Clay Foot Mask  Since clay is also an effective heat conductor, this treatment is very soothing and effective as a muscle relaxing treatment for tired, aching feet. To get the most out of the treatment, make sure to use the green clay. The green clay is rich in magnesium and silica, highly absorbent, and makes a good deodorant. To prepare, just mix 1/2 cup of the powdered green clay with 1/2 cup of distilled water. You can lesson the water if you want, you just need to make a thick paste. Then coat your feet with the clay and allow it to dry, then rinse with warm water, and pat dry. Don't forget to then moisturize those piggies! 

Caring for Your Hair aka Teaching Tuesday on Wednesday! Lol

Now that the power is back on and the storms have passed, we are going to go back in time and get our our Teaching Tuesday post in. This week I want to address the proper way to care for your hair. 


Beautiful hair comes from healthy hair, and healthy hair comes from within. So the first, and most important step in hair care, is to have a healthy life style. Eat well, meaning healthily, drink plenty of water, get adequate sleep, exercise regularly and stay away from alcohol and smoking. The ill affects of not being healthy will definitely show in your hair. 


Another thing that will show in/on your hair, is the affects of the elements. Just like your skin, hair needs to be protected from harsh elements, mainly the sun. So wear your hat when out in the sun, or you can even use a protective sunscreen that is made especially for the hair. 


Really there are four steps which will lead you toward beautiful locks. First off, use a pre-shampoo treatment. This treatment should be geared toward conditioning your hair, or moisturizing and treating damaged hair. The next step is shampooing, which is necessary for removing dirt and oil residue. Then there is the rinse. This is key in removing the excess shampoo, as well as replenishing the hair with nutrients. Then there is the final step of conditioning. The conditioner will seal the moisture into the hair, as well as serve to protect it from the elements. 


You should apply your hair treatments just before getting into a warm tub. The scalp is more responsive to treatments when its pores are dilated and the skin is relaxed.  Then, on your final rinse, you should use cool water so that the pores will tighten and leave your hair shinier. 


Additionally, it is important to not stress out your hair too much. So it is better to use a wide-tooth comb instead of a brush, whose bristles will damage the hair and can easily break the shaft. Of course it is also a good idea to limit your use of gels and mouses, as they tend to build up on the  hair and scalp, and can even irritate the scalp. 


To help you along in obtaining healthy, beautiful locks of love, look for some hair care recipes this Friday and even some more, next Make it yourself Monday! Everything from the pre-shampoo conditioner to the after-shampoo rinse, you can easily make your own!               

Make It Yourself Monday-Tropical Mask

Bromelain is a protein digestive enzyme that helps the skin to get rid of dead cells and dirt. It also helps counteract histamines and even has anti-inflammatory properties. Why am I telling you this? Because you can find bromelain in pineapple! And, on top of all that, pineapple is also a mild astringent and skin freshener. Then, if you add some nice, healing, high in vitamin E olive oil to your pineapple, you have the makings of a great, natural skin mask! Now, for the best, skin-loving mask, you will want to make sure that you use a good quality, cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil, but yes, the kind you find in your local grocery store will work just fine. Do, however, check the label carefully and make sure that it is ALL olive oil. There are quite a few very deceptive labels out there that lead you to think you are getting all olive oil, when in fact, when you read the ingredients label (the small print), you will see other oils mixed in! 


Once you have your olive oil and some pineapple, all you need to do is to add about 4 large pineapple chunks (or 1/2 a can of drained pineapple) and 3 Tablespoons of olive oil into your blender. Blend until almost smooth, then apply the mixture to your face and neck with your fingers. Leave it on for about 15 minutes, then rinse off with warm water, pat dry, and moisturize as normal! 

Make It Yourself Monday- Recipes for (more) Relief

Hope you had a fantastic father's day, and nice weekend. This is Make it Yourself Monday, and here are some more recipes to provide relief!




With summer often comes hot, sweaty, sore, muscles, and sometimes even stinky feet. To provide some relief try one of these recipes.


Cooling and Deodorizing Mist


Get a 8 ounce spray bottle and fill it three fourths full of water. Then add 4 drops of peppermint, grapefruit, and lemon, and 3 drops of wintergreen essential oils. Then add a cap full of vodka. Twist lid on and shake well. You can use this now, or you can wait until it gets cold in the refrigerator for even more cooling, soothing and relief. This spray is great for achy leg muscles after an athletic event, a work out, or just a long day. It is also wonderful for those little piggies who just don't feel up to going to the market anymore! Leave this in the fridge so it will be ready for when you need it, and it will last you for several weeks. You can also give a squirt into those stinky sneakers too for a quick freshen up!




Cucumber Hand Wash


For a nice hand wash that will soothe irritated skin. Try peeling one small cucumber and put it in blender and blend it until it is liquefied. Add one tablespoon of witch hazel to the juice and wash your hands with the mixture. Pat dry and moisturize as normal. This formula helps heal abrasions and relieves puffiness, as well as soothing irritated skin.


Herbal Foot Soak


Herbal soaks are great for tired, achy feet, and they are easy to prepare. Plus, you can alter a herb or two and customize the blend or just give yourself variety! All you need to do is to steep 2 cups of fresh herbs, or 1 cup of dried herbs, in 2 gallons of water for 20 minutes. With the herbs in the pot, bring the water to boil, then reduce heat and simmer with the lid on, for 20 minutes.  Once the time is up, strain the liquid and throw away the plant material. Pour the liquid into foot basin. Once it has cooled enough to not harm you (use it as hot as you can handle it, your feet will love you!), soak your feet for 20 minutes, then pat dry and moisturize as normal. 
As for herbs, you can use many, but I suggest you try these; comfrey, elderberry, chamomile, lavender, pine, rosemary, sage, and/or horsetail

Tripod Thursdays- Soaps 1-35

Make It Yourself Monday- Natural Cleaning Recipes

Since Spring is upon us, it is probably time to get rid of all those winter dust bunnies. Today's recipes will help you do just that, and more! These recipes are made with all natural, household ingredients, and will not only save you money, but will offer you control over what you bring into your environment, your home. Store bought cleaning products all have a myriad of chemicals, most of which I cannot even pronounce, let alone begin to explain what they are. By making your own, you will know exactly what you are using and what you are exposing your family to. Not only will you be in control, you will also be saving yourself time and money! So try these out!

For the recipes below, simply mix the ingredients and pour into a spray bottle. Don't forget to label the bottle! If you dont have any empties laying around the house, you can find all sizes of spray bottles at the dollar store. The recipes can be used on counter tops, floors, walls, carpet and upholstery.

Dissolve 4 Tbs. of  baking soda in one quart of warm water.

Combine 1/4 cup of  (distilled) white vinegar, 1/2 tsp. of liquid soap (vegetable oil-based is best) and 3/4 cup of warm water. Shake this well to ensure blending

Add 1/2 cup of vinegar to warm water. You may use anywhere from one cup to one quart of  water, depending upon the desired strength.

In a large pail, combine 1/2 cup of (distilled) white vinegar, 1/4 cup liquid soap (vegetable oil-based is best), and 2 gallons of warm water. Stir well to ensure blending.  This recipe is for the really big jobs!



Got grease? Got a greasy mess? Well this de-greaser is just the cure! :Mix vinegar and salt together to form a paste. This makes an excellent surface cleanser. As long as you don't dilute the vinegar, this mixture will get rid of your greasy spots!

Frankly Speaking Friday- Illipe Butter

Although illipe butter is hard, and not liquid, it is still quite exotic, so I decided to add it into this series of posts, I hope you will indulge me! 


Illipe butter comes from the nuts of the shorea stenoptera which is a tropical tree that grows in southeast Asia, Borneo and Sumatra. The tree grows from 16 to 49 feet tall, and has two inch seeds which are enclosed in a thin shell, with wing-like attachments, similar to the whirly birds of maple and elm trees.
It flowers October through January, and after the nuts fall to the ground, never before, they are gathered by natives and set to dry in the sun. Once dried, the shells are placed in rice mortars where they are pounded with the pestles until the seeds break away from the hard shell. From there the whole nut, which is the seed, is sent to be rendered where it is cold pressed. The resulting butter is a hard creamy white to light yellow color, with a slight, nutty odor. The locals have been making butter from the illipe nuts for countless centuries, traditionally using it for both therapeutic and cosmetic purposes.

Illipe butters chemical composition parallels that of cocoa butter, and it has nearly the same triglyceride composition, but it is lighter and has a [slightly] higher melting point. This butter, which  is quite hard at room temperature,  melts quickly and easily when it comes in contact with the skin.  And, while it may be this high melting point that makes it a prized ingredient for soaping (as it creates a nice hard bar of soap), surely it is its skin benefiting properties that make it  prized for cosmetic applications.  

Illipe butter  is probably most renown for its skin softening quality, but it also has long-lasting moisturizing attributes. It  restores the skins elasticity, helps to reinforce its natural moisture barrier, reduces the degeneration of skin cells while restoring their flexibility and elasticity, and prevents drying which leads to the development of wrinkles. Illipe butter is used in a variety of sun protection and skin care products, as well as massage creams, soaps, balms, make-up foundations, and hair conditioners. It is beneficial for the treatment of numerous skin and hair disorders, especially chronically dry skin, mature skin, sunburn, sores, damaged skin, and mouth ulcers.

Illipe butter has a shelf life of two years, but it should be kept in a dark, cool location, away from moisture. You may use anywhere from 3 to 100% in your lip stick, lip and body balms, creams, lotions, hair conditioners, make-up foundations, and hard soap recipes. Try this exotic butter in your soap for not only a firm bar, but a highly moisturizing one. But for a real treat, use it directly on the skin, without any additives. You won't need much, because a very little goes a very long way!




*Reminder; references and bibliographies for informational posts are available by following the reference tab at the top of the page 

Teaching Tuesdays - Exotic Oils Cont.- Jojoba Oil

We are continuing with exotic oils, and today is all about jojoba oil, botanically known as Simmondsia chinensis, which is not really an oil at all, but a wax. Pronounced ho-ho-ba, this oil has been used  for centuries. Nicknamed Goat Nut, the jojoba is a member if the box family of shrubs, and can grow to be seven feet tall. It is a deep golden color, and has a mild scent. It is suspected that the Native American Indians of our Southwest not only used the extracted  oil from the seeds of the [desert] jojoba shrub for wound treatments and hair and skin moisturizers, but as a food source as well.

The jojoba shrub grows in desert like, arid climates throughout the world, although it is native to North America. Its seeds are crushed to extract the odorless, hypo-allergenic, stable, natural oil that we call jojoba. Jojoba actually is used to refer to both the plant and the extract. The oil from the seeds is unique, in that it is not really an oil, but rather a pure liquid ester.  The difference between an oil and an ester is small, yet quite large when speaking of properties. Vegetable oils have several alcohol groups on their molecules, and some have forked molecules, which will eventually oxidize, becoming rancid. Jojoba though, has only one alcohol group, and it is a straight chain molecule, therefore it isn't subject to oxidizing, and, in fact it is an anti-oxidant, so it will not turn rancid. It can, however, be affected adversely by sunlight, so it needs to be kept in brown glass bottles, in the dark, or in closed metal cans.

Sebaceous glands are microscopic glands in the skin which secrete sebum, an oily, waxy matter, which lubricates the skin and the hair of mammals, keeping them soft and moist. In humans, these glands are primarily found on the face and the scalp, but are present, to some degree, throughout the skin, except for that on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. 

Jojoba oil is unique for a couple of reasons. First of all, jojoba oil is chemically almost identical to spermaceti (sperm) oil, the pure ester found in the head of the sperm whale. Up until it became restricted, this oil was prized, and frequently used in high temperature lubrication, cosmetics and as car transmission lubricants. Jojoba makes the perfect substitution for this oil, and, as such, effectively helps to save the whales. 

Secondly, jojoba oil closely matches the molecular structure of human sebum, therefore it can easily and quickly penetrate the skin and the scalp, without leaving an oily residue. Additionally, as it mimics the actions of human sebum, it softens, lubricates, and protects the skin and scalp in much the same way that our natural sebum does. Its soothing properties are known to stop many skin issues and to offer protection from premature wrinkling of the skin, as well as premature aging caused by exposure to ultra violet radiation. It is a non-occlusive oil, sinking into the skin and hair follicles, offering extra moisturization. It is considered an excellent emollient, but it is called a "dry emollient", meaning that it should not be used at rates greater than 25% in skin or hair care, as it may feel too dry at a higher level. Because it will not evaporate like a water-soluble moisturizers, jojoba oil will provide moisturizing all day long.  Because of its closeness to the skins' sebum, it makes an excellent oil for treating conditions like psoriasis and acne, and is good for all skin types, especially sensitive and oily skin. It helps to unclog the skins' pores, remove embedded grime, and it also restores and conditions hair. 

When used directly on the face for routine care, you should use amounts lower than 10 drops. Higher amounts, those over 10 drops, can lend a shine to the skin. With this in mind, you may want to be more conservative with it during the day, say 6 drops at a time, which should actually balance oil production and reduce shine at the same time. Then, at night, before bed, you can apply a higher rate for better, deeper moisturizing, without worrying about shine.

Most manufacturers say that jojoba oil has a two-three year shelf life, but this can be well surpassed if it is stored out of sunlight. It does not become rancid 

or loose its antioxidants, even after long periods of storage. It can, however,  become cloudy and solidify as the temperature drops. But this is a normal process that occurs because of the hardening of the fats and waxes, and it will become stable when it gets to be room temperature, or close to it. 


*Check the References tab at the top of the page for the bibliography and references for this post.. 

What's Happening Wednesday- Exotic Oils Cont.- Emu

I know that it is hump day, or for our purposes, What's Happening Wednesday, but today I thought that I would keep going with exotic oils, and discuss Emu oil. I really didn't think you would want to hear more about my soap making, which is still what I am up to, and will be for a few more Wednesdays to come! Lol ! So let's discuss emu oil!


Emu oil comes from the prehistoric, Australian bird, the emu, a large, flightless, ostrich like bird. This bird is thought to have wandered the Australian outback for the past 80 million years, and can still be found there today! Its history can be compared to the Native Americans' relationship with bison, as this bird provided the Australian Aborigines with food, clothing, shelter, medicine ( it was used for wounds, aches, pains and skin protection) and spiritual sustenance. The emu has been valued by the Aborigines for thousands of years, especially for its healing powers, and it does indeed, have many natural qualities which are  beneficial to our health.

Emu oil is a by product of the Emu, after it is processed for it’s meat. It has a thick layer of fat, just under its skin on its back, and this is what is rendered, refined and sterilized, to get the oil that is used in cosmetic and medical applications. Unlike many other oils, the emu oil is beneficial to your health without the addition of any additives, either herbal or chemical. In fact, the fatty acid composition of this oil is very close to the correct composition of the fats found in [normal] human skin. Emu oil has been proven to be an intensive pain reliever in cases of chronic arthritis, strains, sprains, and muscle pain. And it is known to  possess; anti-inflammatory properties, with effects comparable to ibuprofen;  bacteriostatic properties, meaning that it inhibits the growth of bacteria, but may not prevent it; Hypoallergenic properties, which means that it is not known to cause skin irritation or have any side effects; is a non-comedogenic oil, meaning that it does not clog the skin pores; and it is [also] widely used as am accelerant for wound healing. 

When you look at the contents of emu oil, its benefits are not all that surprising. Emu oil contains Vitamin E, which is a major antioxidant and healing agent; Vitamin A, which is a known skin repairer, as well as another antioxidant; Linoleic acid, which helps to ease muscle and joint pain; Oleic acid, a proven skin cell regenerator and anti-wrinkle agent; Sapogens, which are skin softeners; and Terpines, which are known antiseptics.

Skin care products made with emu oil, because of the powerful antioxidants, will be great skin cell regenerators, and anti-wrinkle agents, actually improving the condition of aging skin. Additionally, products made with this oil are great moisturizers, capable of smoothing and conditioning even the roughest and driest of elbows, knees and heels. It is also good for reducing the itching and flakiness that often accompanies dry skin issues, as it forms a protective barrier after it moisturizes and lubricates the irritated skin. Emu oil is actually  a skin-thickening agent, as well, and it affords the skin protection from wind and other weather conditions, especially that of the face and hands. 

Not too mention the fact that, because of its natural bacteriostatic, anti-inflammatory, and cell regeneration properties, this oil would make a great addition to homeopathic balms. In fact, it is gaining popularity in the sports medicine world, as its properties make it a natural choice for balms to treat  muscle aches, pains, strains, pulls, sprains, and cramps, as well as minor wound repairs, especially when scarring could be an issue. It is also a good oil for recipes intended to; lessen the pain of chronic conditions, such as arthritis and fibromyalgia;  lesson the pain and scarring of burns and sunburns; reduce the appearance of stretch marks; alleviate the discomfort of eczema, psoriasis, diaper rash, and shingles; as well as ones that reduce the infection, pain and swelling of insect bites and/or stings. Emu oil has also been shown to help reverse hair loss, so you may wish to consider it in a shampoo or scalp conditioning type of treatment.  

 The anti-inflammatory, as well as the other benefits, of emu oil are considered to be long lasting. Because the human skin lacks phosphorus, and the fact that the chemical composition of emu oil is very similar to that of human skin, this oil, and its beneficial substances, can  quickly and easily penetrate the skin, to a deep level. Then, after it's applied to the skin, this odorless product goes on to moisturize and condition the skin's surface, leaving it smooth and non-greasy. Even after repetitive washings, the skin will still reap the benefits of an application of emu oil. 

When searching for warnings for the use of emu oil, all I found was a note that warned that not all emu oil sold on the market today is of animal origin. Just what the impostors are made with, I didn't find, nor did I find a way to tell whether you had an impostor or not. So my only suggestion is to purchase this oil from a reputable company. Additionally, I found warnings that some  

emu Oil is only rendered and filtered, not purified, so therefore it can contain contaminants. So be sure to read the fine print, and always choose the refined product. 

*As with all these posts, please make sure to read the references/bibliographies by clicking on the Reference tab at the top of this page.

Make It Yourself Monday- Easy Seaweed Scrub

 With winter beginning to appear in our rear-view mirror, it is time to evaluate what this season has done to our skin, repair any damage, and begin preparing for the revealing fashions of Spring and Summer. Today's Make it Yourself Monday project is just the thing to help you on your way to taming harsh, winter skin. 


This recipe is multi-functional. The scrub part gently, but firmly, exfoliates dead skin cells, smoothing the skin, and preparing its surface to more easily accept the nutrients and elements that are needed to replenish those which are lost on a daily basis [by the skin]. 
Since the molecular formation of the human blood cell and seaweed are very similar, nutrients contained in the  seaweed are easily able to be filtered through the skins' pores, and then travel directly into the bloodstream. This means that nutrients and elements such as potassium, magnesium, iodine, protein, copper, vitamins, calcium, and various other amino acids, will be pulled from the seaweed, and transfered into the body, restoring the balance that elements strip away. 


Kelp is the most popular form of seaweed used for healing and cosmetics purposes. Kelp is the common name for the large, leafy, brown algae that grows along the colder coastlines. Fresh kelp is often available in health food stores and many internet vendors, but using the powder, usually by adding water to form a mayonnaise consistency paste, will be just as beneficial as the fresh. 


For this Easy Seaweed Scrub you will need the following


1 lb Sea Salt -  Instead of  ordering this in from a vendor, you can actually get it, very inexpensively, at your local grocery store. Look in the condiment section, it will be in a container similar to your table salt, but with a "sea salt" label. I find that the fine grain works best. 


4 oz. Sweet Almond Oil


1 oz. Shea Butter 


2 oz. Melt and Pour Soap Base - Use whichever type you prefer


1 oz. Seaweed Extract or Seaweed Powder


1 tsp. Fragrance of your choice or 1/2 tsp. your choice of Essential Oil or EO Blend 




To begin, melt the shea butter and the melt and pour soap base in a pan, over low heat. Once melted, remove from the heat and add in the almond oil and salt, mix well, then add the seaweed extract or powder, and lastly, the fragrance of your choice. Make sure that everything is evenly mixed, then pour out into a jar and allow to cool completely. 


Use this scrub as you would any other, making sure to keep the product away from your eyes. Be careful to not to introduce any water into your jar, as water droplets may facilitate microbe growth. In order to prevent this, with a dry hand, remove the entire amount that you will use in one application. Re-seal the lid and put the jar away prior to beginning your scrub, so that you cannot possibly be tempted to reinsert a wet hand into the jar. Wash your face and neck with this scrub, rinse and pat dry, then moisturize as normal.

Teaching Tuesdays - Exotic oils Cont. Camelina

This next oil is not truly what should/would classify as an exotic oil. However, while it is quite a commonly grown and produced oil, it has long been over-looked by the skin-care industry. Why? I am not really certain. 

The Camelia plant was widely grown in Eastern Europe and Russia up to the early 1940's, and still had a quantity of production lasting into the 1950's, but then it was replaced, as canola (rapeseed) oil became known and better used. It has been suggested that the camelina plant, with its high content of unsaturated fatty acids (approx. 90%), may have been more difficult and more expensive to hydrogenate than the rapeseed. It can be speculated then, that this contributed to the camelina's decline as a popular crop.  

The camelina plant has a very long history, with documentation that dates it back to 600 BC. In fact, it was an important oil crop during the Bronze and Iron Ages. Although its gradual replacement during the Middle Ages and after is matter for speculation, what requires no speculation, is the reason for its  resurgence. This oils contents make it highly desirable and scientifically important.                                                                                   

Camelina oil, a member of the mustard seed family, botanically known as camelina sativa, is an underestimated oil, in fact, here in the US, and is often considered to be a weed. The Camelina plant itself is a small, annual shrub, which produces a tiny, pale yellow to greenish-yellow flower. The seeds of the flower are what is pressed for the oil, and the rest of the botanical material is often used for livestock feed. The plant needs very little water or nitrogen in order to flourish, and it can be grown on marginal agricultural lands, which is part of why it is often referred to as a weed. It does not, however, compete with food crops. 

It was grown for oil in the Mediterranean at least 2000 years ago, as well as in parts of Southeastern Russia. Nowadays, it is grown in Eastern Europe and Russia, as well as in the flax growing regions of the upper-Midwest United States, namely Montana. It has been traditionally cultivated as an oilseed crop, to produce vegetable oil and animal feed. It can be used as a rotation crop for wheat, which increases the soil health. It is often referred to as "false flax" because it is frequently found growing wild in the flax fields, and it has also been known as "false flax", "wild flax", "gold of pleasure", and "linseed dodder"

In the past, this oil was often used as the oil in oil in lamps, as well as feed for livestock. While it is still used in stock feed, recently, studies have begun to evaluate its effectiveness as a breast cancer treatment (namely the omega-3 acids that are found in the camelina oil). They are also examining  the use of camelina oil to increase the nutritional value of foods, especially breads, and spreads such as peanut butter. This plant is quite versatile and studies are sure to find many more health and nutritional benefits.

The gum layer that surrounds each camelina seed has been extracted, then added to other crop seeds, to coat the seeds and improve their germinating viability in challenging environments. Additionally, studies are showing that this gum has the potential to be used as a soil amendment, to stabilize exposed soil, and control erosion during road construction.

This plant is expeller pressed, and comes unrefined. It is a dark gold to dark olive colored oil, with a heavy herbaceous, green scent, and has a strong, nutty flavor, heavily resembling almond. because of this strong flavor, it makes a great salad and cooking oil, but it is a very popular additive for in animal food. In fact, it is said to have wonderful benefits for dogs, promoting healthy skin and a glossy coat. It can also be put directly onto their dry food,  and is quite tasty, according to Dallas and Gizmo! 

To spite being under appreciated in the body care industry, camelina oil  actually makes a very good addition to your skin care products formulary. To begin with, it has a very long and stable shelf life, lasting about two years. It contains about 64% polyunsaturated, 30% monounsaturated, and 6% saturated fatty acids. The main thing though, is that camelina oil has a 35-45% linoleic acid content. This is an omega-3 fatty acid, which is an essential acid, one that is necessary for good mental and physical health. Omega-3 fatty acids are generally only found in substantial, commercial quantities in linseed (flax) and certain fish meats, organs and oils. Since camelina oil is more flavorful and longer lasting than flax seed oil, and safer to consume than potentially [mercury] contaminated fish, and it is 10 times higher in fatty acids than other oils, it is quickly becoming the preferred source of omega-3 fatty acids.  

Because of its properties and cellular make-up, this oil can offer great anti-aging and emollient properties to your skin care products. The essential fatty acids help to repair skin cells, and improve the elasticity and suppleness of skin, making it a good choice for formulations geared toward maturing and/or sensitive skin. Additionally, it provides a protective coating for hair follicles, so it is also beneficial in your hair care formulations. 

 Unfortunately, due to it's under-appreciation in the recent past years, many  vendors are not familiar with this oil. I did find, however, that a few of my regular vendors do carry the oil, and, although they didn't offer usage rate recommendations, they did agree that this oil should be included in lip balms, creams, lotions, body butters and massage oils. In fact, they recognized it as  a "super oil for skin care". 

Whether for skin care, or for the other health benefits that this oil can provide, every article that I have read agrees, this oil has amazing properties. Properties that continue to be discovered and studied. This may very well be the oldest, new miracle oil, Lol!

*Remember to check out the reference page by cliking on the reference tab at the top of the page!   

 Camelina, Emu, and Evening Primrose