Facing Some Face Care Challenges

Throughout history women have gone to great lengths to achieve the standard, "beautiful" face. Elizabethan women covered their faces in lead to achieve the coveted ghostly pallor that was considered beautiful in that time. Roman women use to smear wax on their wrinkles, and used mercury based lotions on their freckles and spots, in order to maintain their idea of a beautiful face.

The ancient Greeks believed that facial proportions needed to be harmonious for a woman to be beautiful, while the Victorians favored thin lips, and Rubens went for double chins and fat cheeks (many of us long for those days I think! lol).

Clearly the idea and the standard of what constitutes a beautiful face changes with time. While our society, even just a few short years ago, favored the thin bodied, with full, lush lips, today there is a large push toward more "normal" sized women, with proportionate features. However, no matter what anyone in particular identifies as beautiful, one thing is for certain, the key is clean, healthy skin. 

Everyone, men and women alike, desire clean and healthy skin, and feel better when they have it.  You can cover your hands and feet, and camouflage the skin in clothing, but you cannot hide your face. It is always out there for all to see. And, it is always out there taking the brunt of all the elements. Additionally, poor diet, poor sleep patterns, smoking, drinking alcohol, stress,and exposure to weather all affect the sensitive skin of the face. 

Of course good habits and good health are the first key to good skin care, after all beauty (and health) comes from the inside out. But still, you can have issues, no matter your age. Actually, about 25% of adults  suffer from acne, and most of theses are women. Unfortunately, the hormonal fluctuations that females endure from the teen years to menopause, trigger an increase in the production of sebum. Sebum comes from the sebaceous glands in the skin, and is the skins way to lubricate itself. It is our body's oil. When there is excess sebum it can become trapped under the dead skin cells, and block the block the pores. Blocking the pores effectively cuts off the sebum's route to [skin's] surface, which leads to inflammation inside the pores. Then the bacteria that normally lives on the skin  heads to that site to feed on the trapped oil. This is when a pimple or zit pops up.  

So what can you do to ensure good skin and combat the elements that conspire against your face?

First of all we need to review the basics. Realistically, there are five steps that should be in your routine skin care plan. 

1. Cleanse. This will rid your skin of dirt, makeup and oils. For this step, you should consider using a good soap adn keep the detergent bars on the shelf. In case you are new to this blog, you should know that almost every bar of soap in the big box store is actually a detergent bar. If you have to choose from commercially prepared soaps, at least choose one designed for sensitive skin. For more information on cleansing, as well as some natural recipes, see this post.

Want to make yourself a good cleanser that won't break the bank? Try this one.

2. Steam. Steam opens the skin's pores, increases the blood circulation in the facial capillaries, and deep cleans the skin. For more about steams, including recipes for steams to address various skin conditions, see this post.

3. Mask or Peel. This will further remove residue deep in the pores. It also nourishes and replenishes the skin with essential vitamins and minerals. Need some easy recipes to make masks and peels at home? See this post.

4. Tone. Toners tighten the pores and prepare the skin to accept the moisturizer. For recipes and more details about toners, see this post.

5. Moisturize. This replenishes the skin with fluid and gives it a fine coat of protective film. For recipes and more details, see this post.

Before continuing on I want to review some face care tips that we all would do well to remember;

-ALWAYS clean your face BEFORE doing a steam.

-Pull your hair back so you can get right up to the hairline.

-Should you have a flare up, do not be tempted to over-wash your face. Washing too often can strip the skin of its natural oils, as well as irritate already inflamed skin. Do not think that striping the skin's natural oils will solve your problems, because all it does is stimulate the body to produce more sebum to compensate for its loss.

-Avoid products containing heavy oils, namely petroleum by-products. When choosing makeup, avoid oil based foundations, as these tend to clog pores.

-Always remove makeup by cleansing the face before bed time. As previously stated, be sure to use a gentle cleanser. The more natural, the better.

-ALWAYS wear sunscreen when outside. That means ALWAYS, not just when you go to the beach or pool. Uv rays are always present.

-Don't forget to cleanse and care for your neck just like you care for your face. Neck skin ages the same way that the skin on your face does.

-Don't forget to moisturize above your upper lip and the area above the cheekbones, but below the eyes. These areas tend to be particularly lacking in moisture.

-Steam your skin once a week for the benefits mentioned in the steps of facial care.

-Be cautious when steaming. You do NOT want to scald the skin. If the steam is burning the inside of your nose when you breath in, wait a few minutes for the water to cool down, the try again.

-Eating more whole grains, eggs, leafy greens and broccoli will naturally increase the vitamin E in your system, and vitamin E promotes skin elasticity.

-Eating more spinach, cantaloupe, carrots and pumpkin will increase the amount of vitamin A in your diet, which lubricates and heals the skin.

So....since extra washing is not the answer when you have pimples, what else can you do, what will correct the problem? While there may be some cases where only a dermatologist consult is appropriate, certainly there are many instances where a small amount of time and an herbal remedy is the key. In fact, there are several herbs and essential oils that have been used for many years to treat skin conditions. The following is only a partial list.

Bergamot oil is primarily used for its antiseptic properties. In a facial steam it reduces redness, irritations and puffiness.

Burdock root is a herb that contains antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It too has traditionally been used to treat acne, as well as other skin conditions.  

Chaparral, also called “stinkweed,” is often used to treat inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, herpes, psoriasis and eczema. 

Lavender is very beneficial for acne-prone skin, as it normalizes the secretions of sebaceous glands.

Neem oil has traditionally been used to treat all kinds of skin conditions. It possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, and is said to be quite   effective against acne. 

In beauty treatments, rose oil is effective for treating wrinkles, puffiness and dry skin. Rosewater has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and toning properties, and makes a great steam for any skin condition.

Witch hazel is an old, and well used treatment for psoriasis, eczema, and cracked or blistered skin. Witch hazel reduces swelling, has antiseptic properties, and even though it is a strong anti-oxidant and astringent, it also acts to soothe the skin, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. It is much more skin friendly than alcohol, which is often present in commercial astringents and toners. For more about astringents and toners, their definitions and recipes that you can make at home for skin problems, see this old post.

Yellow Dock Root also has minerals that control swelling and irritation in blocked pores.

Rosemary, sandalwood, tea tree, red thyme, green and blue yarrow, ylang ylang, galbanum, geranium, and helichrysum are all essential oils that would be beneficial in creating acne treatments.

While the following essential oils would benefit preparations for oily skin; fennel, grapefruit, juniper, bergamot (make sure its furo free), myrtle, patchouli, petitgrain, red thyme, rosewood, tea tree. 

 In fact, if you look through older posts, I am sure that you will find some things mentioned that I have forgotten to include here. Generally speaking, there are several good herbs and essential oils that you can use to benefit various skin conditions. So study up, then have fun experimenting! 

Here are a few more recipes. And some more. 

**Essential oils are a wonderful treatment modality. However, they need to be treated with caution and respect. Unless you are educated in their usage, please seek out a professional. Trying to formulate your own recipes with these oils when you are unaware of their proper implications, usage rates, or contraindications can be quite dangerous. So please be safe! 

Teaching Tuesday-Toners and Astringents

Last week I was asked to recommend products that would help to form the base of a good facial cleansing program. So guess what today's post is all about? You got it, face care! 


It has been a few years since we've discussed it in depth, so I will begin by reiterating that there are five steps to the perfect facial skin care regimen. Number one, you must cleanse the skin properly to rid it of makeup, dirt and excess oil see this post for recipes for non-soap cleansers. Number two, is to steam.  A good steam [which could be just a good hot, in the shower steam] opens the pores and increases the blood circulation in the facial capillaries, as well as deep cleansing the skin check this post out. for more about steams. Step three is using a mask or a peel to further remove residue, that which lies deep in the pores. They also nourish the skin, as well as replenishing it with essential vitamins and minerals. For more about masks, look here and here. Step four is the toner. A toner tightens the pores and prepares it to accept the final step, the moisturizer. The moisturizer replenishes the skin with fluid, and also provides it with a fine layer of protection. For more tips on the basics of face care check this old post.

So, let's go back and look at step four, since this is the one that usually trips up most people. Toners are skin care products that work to balance the PH of the skin, close the pores, remove excess dirt that was missed during the cleansing phase, and soothe irritated skin. As previously stated, toners are used after cleansing and before moisturizing. Generally speaking, toners can be used by any of the eight skin type categories (those being; dry, mature, oily, combination, normal, sensitive, sun damaged, and acneic, which means acne.


Astringents and toners are not interchangeable words, or treatments. Even though they are frequently used to mean the same thing by the unknowing, they are really two different skin care products, with two different end purposes. Astringents are similar to toners, in that they are used at the same time in the facial care process, and they both act to close the pores. An astringent though will not necessarily soothe irritated skin. It will, however, remove the dirt, debris, and excess oil that is found in oily or acneic skin types. The rest of the properties of the astringent depend upon the ingredient that is being used for the "astringent" action. 


Commercial astringents rely on alcohol to provide the astringent properties, which tend to excessively dry out the skin, and can even damage skin cells. On the other hand, organic skin care makers, such as myself, utilize witch hazel to create the astringent properties. Witch hazel, botanically known as Hamamelis Virginiana, is a deciduous shrub that is native to eastern North America, from Nova Scotia west to Minnesota, and south to central Florida and eastern Texas. Interestingly, its forked twigs are the preferred diving rod! But for the purpose of skin care, the leaves and the bark are used to create an extract, and you can find it in your local pharmacy, just look for witch hazel. 


Witch hazel has been used medicinally for centuries. Among other things, it is frequently used to treat insect bites, poison ivy, varicose veins, hemorrhoids (and is found in many commercial hemorrhoid preparations) ingrown toenails, to prevent facial sweating, as an aftershave, and as a natural remedy for psoriasis, eczema, and cracked or blistered skin. Witch hazel reduces swelling, has antiseptic properties, and while being a strong anti-oxidant and astringent, also acts to soothe the skin, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. And much more skin friendly than alcohol.


Because of the alcohol, commercial astringents are harsh, and can strip the skin of its natural PH balance, not to mention that they tend to sting when applied. Because historically the majority of astringent products have been,  made with alcohol, astringents have gained a bad reputation in the skin care world. Today, however, there is a movement toward more natural ingredients being included in skin care products. Not just the products that Indie companies make either, but some of the larger companies, seeing the swing toward natural, are beginning to incorporate some natural ingredients into their lines as well. You will still need to be vigilant when choosing a commercial brand, because many times they play up the one natural ingredient they have, only to hide several nasty ones. So make sure that you read the labels and know what those words mean. Remember, not all long words are bad ingredients. For example,  butyrospermum parkii  is the official name for shea butter, so do some research!


Now, back to toners and astringents. Unless you have very oily skin, are having an acne flare up, or are in need of a deep cleansing, you generally do not need an astringent, instead you should choose a toner. Even if you need the astringent, as soon as the need has past, change to a toner. 
That being said, with some Indie formulations you can manage to get a product that will offer the best of both worlds for your skin type. Of course this depends upon the sensitivity of your skin, the severity of your skin problems, and the knowledge level of your Esthetician. So again, research is extremely important.

If you have combination skin, or have problem "spots", you can always use an astringent on just those areas where it is needed, by applying with a q-tip or cotton ball, or you could always use the astringent in the mornings and the the toner at night, or the astringent on odd days and the toner on even ones. However it works best for you. With time and experimentation, you will discover what works best for you. Keep in mind though, the seasons and your activities will also play a part in your skin care needs. The harsh elements of Winter, forced air heating, cold, wind, and lack of sunshine, tend to dry out the skin. So switching to a mild toner is usually most beneficial, regardless of your skin type. 

Here are some recipes for toners and astringents       Here are some for moisturizers  

Make it Yourself Monday- Facial Masks

Now that we are coming into Fall, it is really important to pay attention to your skin and take some time to prepare it for the harsh winter weather that we all hope we don't have! And, if you are blessed enough to live in the warmth, then you still need to care for your skin, because the sun is just as harsh as the cold, if not more so.


So here are a couple of easy to make face masks. The first one will mainly serve to detoxify and remineralize, while the second will be heavily nourishing. So one one week and one another would be perfect! 




Seaweed Mask


You will need;
4 tablespoons of kelp powder-[*See the 1st note below the recipes] (check your local health food store for this).
1/2 cup of aloe vera gel (you can get this in your local big box store or pharmacy)
3 tablespoons of distilled water


Mix the kelp powder and gel in a small bowl, then slowly add in the water until the mixture becomes a the consistency of a thick paste. You may use slightly less or maybe even slightly more water than the amount stated. That is ok. Just get a nice pasty consistency, one that you can easily spread. Then apply it to the face and neck, and leave sit for 15 to 20 minutes while you try to relax. When time is up, rinse with warm water and pat dry, then moisturize as normal.


This mask is gentle enough to be used routinely, so once a week is great, or alternate this one with others that have benefits you may need.


Vegetable Mask


You will need;
1/2 cup of heavy cream
1 cooked and mashed medium sized carrot
1 peeled, pitted and mashed avocado
3 tablespoons honey


Combine all the ingredients into a bowl, mix well, and spread over the face and neck. Relax for 15-20 minutes, then rinse with cool water and pat dry. Moisturize as normal.


Clay Masks


You can take all manner of clay and add any type of liquid to it to make a mask. You can use milk or other dairy products (such as cream, yogurt, or milk), water or various juices. 


Just a few notes-


-There is more than one type of seaweed available. You need to make sure that you purchase one that is face safe. Some types are only for use as a body wrap, and those are too harsh for facial use. So make sure that you get one that is safe for the facial area.


-There is more than one type of clay available. Generally speaking, certain colored clay is better for certain skin types. Do not buy a certain clay because your friend has that clay. You need the type that is best for your skin! 
Want to know what is best for what? Tune back in tomorrow for Teaching Tuesday- Clay!


- Remember to keep the avocado pit because it is a great natural massage tool.


-If you use clay in a mask, the thicker the clay is, the more intense the drawing action will be, so keep this in mind as you prepare it. 


-Masks are designed with ingredients that are intended to pull impurities from the skin, then other ingredients are intended to either restore and/or put some specific properties back into the skin. 


-What your skin type is, and what it needs to restore balance, are the key factors that should determine the type of mask that you use.  When in doubt, study and ask questions! 

Make It Yourself Monday- Recipes for the Face

Creamy Face Wash Recipe


16 oz liquid Castile soap
4 oz of your a plain facial moisturizer (unscented)
16 drops bergamot essential oil
8 drops tea tree essential oil


Combine all of the above ingredients in a glass bowl and use a stick blender to mix it well. After its mixed, you can put it into a bottle and add a pump. This mixture is great for clearing up blemishes without drying your skin, and you do not need to use much of it to get the job done. In fact, using too much liquid will make it difficult to get your face rinsed quickly.




 Acne Steam  


This is an herbal water steam that is good for blemish-prone skin.
You will need; 


1/2 cup Calendula petals
3 drops Lavender essential oil
2 drops Bergamot essential oil
1 drop Tea Tree essential oil
2 tsp. raw honey
 a small amount of Jojoba oil


Boil 8 cups water, then stir in the 1/2 cup of calendula petals. Cover the pot and allow it to steep for 10 minutes, then add the essential oils and the honey. Mix well and then pour the herbal water into a large ceramic bowl. Sit down and put your face over bowl, draping your head with a bath towel.  Make sure to keep your eyes closed, and allow the steam to moisten your face until the water has completely cooled. Then pat your face dry and finish the treatment by massaging a small amount of Jojoba oil into your skin.






Exfoliating Facial 


3 oz. sweet almond oil 
4 oz. Almond meal
2 oz. Cider vinegar 
2 oz. Distilled Water 
6 drops Geranium Essential Oil (norm skin) OR 
Lavender (for oily or sensitive skin) 




Mix all of the ingredients together, blending until it is paste-like. This may take about 2 minutes, so don't loose heart. Once mixed, rub in a circular manner all over your face and neck. Exert a small amount of pressure, but be careful to not abrade the skin. Once applied, rinse off with tepid water, pat dry, and moisturize as normal.

Teaching Tuesdays- Face the Facts about Face Care

Just so you know, tomorrow we will be continuing the exotic oils series with Macadamia nut oil. But today, we are going to review what it takes to care for your face. If you are like me, you just grab a soap and wash and dry and that's that, but really, there are five steps that we should all be taking, to get and keep that perfect face! With winter about over and summer well on its way, it's time to begin caring for, and protecting your facial skin. If you have been practicing one or more of these steps all along, good for you! I am sure you will be rewarded with a few less wrinkles and more smooth skin. But it is never too late to begin being healthy, so let's review!


First of all we need to properly cleanse. This will rid the skin of dirt, makeup and oils. Then we need to steam. This opens up the pores, increases blood circulation in the facial capillaries, and deep cleanses the skin. Then we need to apply a facial mask or a peel. This will further remove residue deep in the pores, and it nourishes and replenishes the skin with essential vitamins and minerals. Next is applying a toner. Toners tighten the pores, and prepare the skin to accept the moisturizer, which is the fifth step. A moisturizer  replenishes the skin with fluid, and gives it a fine layer of protective film, which helps ward off the affects of elements that seek to destroy our skin daily.

Here are a few more tips for face care. Remember, we need to treat our skin well, it is our first line of defense against bacteria and viruses.

• Remember to ALWAYS clean your face BEFORE doing a steam.
• Pull your hair back so that you can clean right up to the hairline.
• ALWAYS wear a sunscreen when outside. It does not need to be sunny for the ultra violet rays to affect your skin.
• Don't forget to moisturize above your upper lip, as well as the area above the cheekbones, below the eyes. These areas tend to be particularly lacking in moisture.
• Make time to provide yourself with routine skin care, You are worth it! 

Make It Yourself Monday -Protein Face Mask

Since it is winter, even the oiliest of oily skin can usually benefit from using a moisturizing mask. It is quite liberating and enjoyable to treat yourself to a face mask once in a while, even if you do not routinely do so. Trust me on this one! It took me many years to break down and do one for myself. In fact, I had been selling mine for many years before I ever used one. I gave all of my new recipes to test subject and let them have all of the fun. Then I took their word that they were good and never felt like I should "waste" my time and money on myself. SILLY, silly woman! A couple of years ago, test subject short, my Mother agreed to use one only if I would also allow her to put one on me. She said that I was worth my own products. I always knew that my Mom was smart (even though I naturally hate to admit that), but let me tell you something, that woman is a God send! Not only did I LOVE my anti-aging face mask  but I loved the way that pampering myself made me feel. I had forgotten how using good product feels, and I am not saying that to toot my own horn, I'm saying that to get you to treat yourself! Don't wait as long as I did, treat yourself to whatever product makes you feel good about yourself NOW! YOU ARE WORTH IT!!

And, to that end, here is a wonderful beauty mask. It is excellent for any skin type, but benefits maturing skin greatly! It is simple to make and you will feel sooooooo good after you use it! You can use it weekly if you like.

Protein Face Mask

All you will need is; 4 tablespoons of chickpea flour (if your big box store doesn't have, check the health food store), 1 ripe banana, and 1 egg, beaten.  In a bowl, mix the chickpea flour and the ripe banana until it is like a paste. Then add the beaten egg, mix in and then apply to  the face and don't forget the neck. Leave the mask on for 15 minutes, then rinse it off with tepid water, and pat dry.




The chickpea flour has many advantages, it's a skin-softener, as well as an effective exfoliater. It also stimulates circulation while rejuvenating the skin tissue. Bananas, rich in vitamin A and potassium, as well as being a natural emollient, will help to reduce puffiness                  and redness.  The egg will serve to tighten pores and leave your face feeling rejuvenated

*see the reference page link (top of screen) for the bibliography of this post




After last weeks posts on roses, I remembered having this face mask, also a weekly one, but mainly for maturing skin. If you are fortunate enough to have rose essential oil, try this one!

Honey Rose Face Mask

Take 2 tablespoons of honey and mix with 2 tablespoons of sweet almond oil, the add 5 drops of rose essential oil.  Mix well and apply to your face and neck. Allow to rest for 15 minutes, rinse off and pat dry.

*see the reference page link (top of screen) for the bibliography of this post

More Rubs, More Scrubs

As you have probably figured out by now, you can use a great many different kitchen and grocery products in your health and beauty regimen. Oatmeal, sugar, ground nuts, and ground citrus peel all make gently abrasive ingredients for scrubs. Experiment to see which feels best for you and which best suits your skin type. When in doubt go with oatmeal, as it is very gentle and helps to soften the skin while gently and lightly abrading, as well as being an agent that helps to reduce itching. As for the carrier oils, which you use can depend upon availability (just about everyone keeps olive oil in the kitchen) or you can go with one that is perfect for your skin type and/or need.

OILS

Apricot kernal oil rehydrates the skin and is great for facial scrubs or massages. It restores the skin's glow and softens the skin. It is a light oil and is great for mixing with heavier oils. Avocado oil is great for very dry skin. Even though it is very heavy, it is easily absorbed into the skin, so use this if you have skin that has a hard time accepting oils. This oil is very nourishing, but the shelf life is short. Hazelnut oil is easily absorbed by the skin and is great for those with oily skin. Jojoba oil is on the expensive side, but it is very similar to the oil our own skin produces so it is easily absorbed. Another plus is that it naturally contains vitamin E, which helps to preserve it and give it a longer shelf life than many other oils. Olive oil (extra virgin) is very heavy so you may choose to mix it with a lighter oil. It is disinfecting and healing, and it is great for chapped, dry skin. Safflower oil is light and very easily absorbed by the skin. Sunflower oil is a fairly light oil. It helps the skin to maintain its natural level of moisture while softening it. Sweet almond oil is a mid weight oil and a great all purpose oil. It can be used by all skin types and it relieves itchiness.

CREAMY FACIAL

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/8 cup honey

4 Tbs. powdered milk

2 drops rosemary EO

Heat the honey, remove from heat, then add in the mayo, powdered milk and rosemary essential oil. Stir well. When cool enough apply to face and neck. Leave on for 15 minutes then rinse off with tepid water and pat skin dry. This must be used when and as it is made.

CORNMEAL FACE SCRUB

5 drops Pink Grapefruit EO 5 drops Patchouli EO 5 drops Lavender EO 1/4 cup cornmeal 1/4 cup plain yogurt Mix ingredients together and refrigerate for a couple of hours before using. Store any unused portions in the refrigerator.

GINGER BODY SCRUB

2 drops Ginger EO 4 drops Peppermint EO 3 drops Rosemary EO 1/3 Cup your choice of a Carrier Oil (like sweet almond oil) 1/4 Cup Cornmeal 1/4 Cup Dead Sea or European Spa salts Mix the salt and the cornmeal together. Warm the carrier oil, mix in the essential oils, then mix all with dry ingredients. Use this in the shower or standing in the tub, but be cautious to not slip in the oil. Apply in circular motions, working from the extremities inward, working towards the center of the body and the heart. Rinse with warm water, then pat dry. This, as with most scrubs, is best used in the mornings because of its invigorating effects.

Face Off and Put This On.....

Now you are the final step of a perfect face care regimen. You've cleansed, steamed, masked or peeled, and toned, so now it is time for the final step of moisturizing. Moisturizing is important in order to replenish the skin with fluid, and to finely coat it with a protective film barrier. *ROSE MOISTURIZER* Rosewater is the byproduct of rose essential oil. It takes 5,000 pounds of rose petals, as many as 100 million, to produce one pound of rose oil. The rose, its steam distilled oil, and the byproduct rose water, have many therapeutic properties. They are used in treating respiratory coughs to ulcers. In beauty treatments rose oil is effective for treating wrinkles, puffiness and dry skin. Rosewater has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and toning properties. Combined with the aloe gel, this lotion will leave skin moist and supple. 1/2 cup virgin olive oil 2 Tbs. aloe vera gel 3 Tbs. lanolin 4 Tbs. beeswax, grated 4 Tbs. rosewater (see previous posts for recipe) Blend the olive oil and the aloe vera gel together in a small bowl and set aside. Melt the beeswax and the lanolin together, over low heat, in a small saucepan, stirring constantly. When melted remove from heat. Gradually pour in the olive oil lanolin blend, while continuing to stir. Then pour this mixture and the rosewater into a blender and blend until very smooth. Once blended, pour into a glass or plastic jar and place into the refrigerator. This blend will solidify as it cools. After it sets it is ready for use. *SENSITIVE SKIN COLD CREAM* This recipe has cucumber juice which is excellent for cleansing sensitive skin. It is a mild astringent and is very soothing. The lanolin absorbs water and holds holds it next to the skin. 2 small cucumbers peeled and halved 1 cup lanolin 1/4 cup almond oil 1/2 cup boiling water Using a blender thoroughly liquefy the cucumber halves, then slowly add the boiling water to the cucumber liquid. When added, set aside to cool. In a saucepan melt the lanolin over low heat. After it is melted, remove from heat and, while stirring continuously, add the almond oil to it gradually. Now strain the cucumber pulp through a piece of cheesecloth or a strainer (you can also use a coffee filter if you don't have cheesecloth). Throw away the pulp and preserve the juice. Gradually add the cucumber juice to the lanolin and oil mixture, all the while stirring. When completely mixed, put into a jar (can be glass or plastic) and store in the refrigerator. *DRY SKIN NIGHT CREAM* This skin cream contains ingredients with properties to rebuild and regenerate cell tissue, while killing bacteria on the skin surface. They also offer some sun-screen properties, and will help seal in the skin's moisture, leaving the face feeling incredibly smooth. 1 egg 1/4 cup sesame oil 1/4 cup sunflower oil 1 Tbs. liquid lecithin 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup coconut oil Crack the egg and drop the white and yolk into a blender. Add the sesame oil and blend. While the blender is still running, slowly add the sunflower oil, lecithin and lemon juice. Add in the coconut oil gradually, until the mixture is thick. Refrigerate the mixture fro one hour, then blend again, on low speed. You may now apply the cream to your face and neck. Store the remainder in a jar, plastic or glass, in the refrigerator. Because of the egg, this cream will only be good for approx. 2 weeks. *EYELASH CONDITIONER* If you frequently wear mascara, your eyelashes will get dried out. The tiny hairs of your eyelashes look best when they are not brittle and broken. Natural oils can be used to lubricate and condition your eyelashes. Just take a 50/50 blend of apricot kernel oil and sweet oil (sweet oil is extra, extra virgin olive oil. Ask your pharmacist for some). After mixing the two oils, lightly coat your eyelashes with it, using a clean eye wand. Leave it on overnight. In the morning, wash it off before applying your mascara.

More Mask Recipes

In preparing for the next segment of facial care, I came across a couple of other mask recipes that sounded good, so here ya go!

*Soy Mask*

1/4 Cup soy powder
1/4 Cup unflavored yogurt
1-2 drops peppermint essential oil

Mix the soy powder and yogurt until you have a nice paste, then add the essential oil. Pat onto your face and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Rinse off with warm water and pat dry.

This is a good mask for any skin type, but is especially good for dry skin, as will not over-dry, even as the peppermint clarifies the skin. There is no shelf life to this, use it as soon as it is made.

*Pore Reducing Mask*

1/8 Cup French Clay (you can get this at most health food stores)
1 medium, peeled & mashed, cucumber
1 tsp. sweet almond oil
enough water to make a paste

In a small glass bowl, mix clay, cucumber and oil. Add water until you make a very moist, soft clay, mask. Put on your face and let dry. This usually takes 10-15 minutes. As the moisture evaporates, leaving the mask, it creates a pulling action. This presses out black and whiteheads from the skin and tightens the pores. Once it is dry, wash off with warm water and pat skin dry.
Your skin will be tight and glowing!

*You can alter the amount of oil in this recipe to suit your skin needs. If you want a more conditioning mask, if you have very dry skin, add more sweet almond oil.
If you skin is very oily, add less sweet almond oil.

Mask and Peel Your Face to Beautiful Skin

So now that we've cleansed and the steamed the face, step three, the next step is to mask and peel. This is a necessary step to further remove residue deep within the pores of the skin. It also nourishes the skin as it replenishes essential vitamins and minerals. -----Quick Skin Tightening Mask----- Beat an egg white until it is frothy. Apply to the face. The mask will tighten as it dries. After five minutes, rinse off thoroughly, first with warm water, then with cool. Pat skin dry. -----Soothing Mask Peel----- Ingredients: 1 small cucumber, 2 oz green tea (steeped and strained), 2 oz chamomile tea (steeped and strained), 1 packet unflavored gelatin, 1 oz aloe vera gel In a blender puree a peeled and seeded cucumber, then run the puree through a sieve (you can use a coffee filter or cheesecloth if you don't have a sieve), reserve the juice. In a small sauce pan, combine the green tea, gelatin, and chamomile tea. Heat on low, stirring until completely dissolved. Remove from heat and pour contents into a glass bowl. Add the cucumber juice and aloe gel to this mixture, then place into the refrigerator until it starts to thicken, approx. 25 minutes. When it is ready, spread mixture over your neck and face with your fingers. Allow to dry for 20 minutes, then peel off the mask. Rinse with warm water then pat dry. You can use this mask every morning, or if you are suffering from a sunburned face, you can use it three times a day. This mask is especially good for irritated skin. The cucumber is cool and soothing, and a mild astringent. The chamomile and green tea help to alleviate puffiness. The aloe vera will help to heal sunburned skin and to maintain the moisture balance of the facial skin. -----Protein Mask----- Ingredients: 4 Tbs. chickpea flour, 1 ripe banana, 1 egg Peel and mash the banana. In a bowl, combine the flour and the banana. Blend into a paste. Beat the egg, then add to the flour banana mixture. Once combined, apply to your face and neck. Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse well with warm water, and pat dry. Chickpea is a great skin-softening exfoliator. It stimulates circulation while rejuvenating the facial tissues. Bananas are rich in vitamin A and potassium. They are a natural emollient and help to reduce puffiness and redness. The egg tightens skin pores to leave your skin feeling fresh and revitalized. ----- Restorative Mask------ Ingredients: 4 large pineapple chunks or 1/2 cup canned, drained pineapple, 3 Tbs. cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil Put the pineapple and oil into the blender, blending until almost smooth. Apply the mixture to the face with your fingers. Leave on for 15 minutes, rinse with warm water and pat dry. Pineapple is a mild astringent and skin freshener. It contains bromelain, an enzyme which helps rid the skin of dirt and dead cells. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, and helps to counteract histamines. Olive oil is a good source of natural vitamin E and has excellent healing properties. It will help to restore the skin 's surface. -------Nourishing Mask ------ Ingredients: 1/2 cup heavy cream, 1 carrot, 1 avocado, 3 Tbs. honey Cook and mash the carrot. Peel, pit and mash the avocado. Then combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Mix well, then spread over face and neck. Leave on for 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water and pat dry. Carrots are high in anti-oxidant vitamins and beta-carotene. Heavy cream is high in calcium and protein. Avocados are a natural and rich source of vitamin E . When you add these all together you get a facial mask that, when used regularly, will improve skin texture, rebuild collagen and diminish age spots. ----- Cleansing Peel----- Ingredients: 1 packet unflavored gelatin, 3 Tbs. distilled water, 1 papaya Peel and seed the papaya, then place in the blender and blend thoroughly. Then strain it and save the liquid. Combine the gelatin and water in a small saucepan, and dissolve over a low heat. Once dissolved, put gelatin in a small bowl. Add the papaya juice and place in the refrigerator until the mixture begins to set, approx. 20 minutes. Spread the mixture over your face and neck and leave for 15 minutes. Rinse with a soft sponge or cloth dipped in warm water, then pat dry. The natural enzyme papain is found in the papaya. It effectively removes dead skin cells.

Getting into Hot Water

Step Two to Facial Care is the STEAM. Steam opens and cleanses the pores, while increasing blood circulation to facial capillaries. Steam deep cleanses the skin. You should steam cleanse at least one time per week. Make sure that you clean your face prior to steaming. In other words,
there is a reason that steaming is step TWO. You want the steam to work on the deep pore grime, not surface dirt! If you are going to skip steps in your facial routine, make sure you at least moisturize after the steam.

***All steams, unless otherwise noted, require 1 gallon of ALMOST boiling water. Once the recipe is prepared, you will need to place a towel over your head and lean your face over the bowl, about 12 inches away, to absorb the steam and vapors. Don't forget to exercise extreme caution so that you don't scald your skin. If the inside of your nose feels like it is burning, wait a few minutes for the water to cool down before you try again.
Heat breaks down some essential oils, therefore you may need to allow the water to cool slightly before mixing in certain oils in order to maintain their full therapeutic value.***

*Rose Petal Facial Steam, for normal skin:

• Put 1 cup of fresh rose petals (roses are often treated to enhance color and increase longevity, so make sure that the ones you use are not chemically treated in any way) into a large bowl and pour 1 gallon of almost boiling water over them. Steam, breathing in the vapors, for 15 minutes, then gently pat dry.
  

Once you are done with the steam, you can use the left over ingredients to make rosewater. Simply strain the liquid from your steam and save the petals and water separately. Pour water into a medium saucepan and simmer over a low heat for about 30 minutes, or until there is about one cup of liquid left. Once it is reduced, pour this over the saved petals and steep for another 20 minutes, then strain liquid again. Discard the petals and pour the liquid into a glass bottle and allow to cool. You now have rosewater! Rosewater, a by-product of rose essential oil, has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and toning qualities. It is a natural astringent that can be applied by cotton ball to the face.

*Rosemary Peppermint Facial Steam
This steam is not only helpful in opening the pores and extracting the skin's impurities, it is also known to clear sinuses and alleviate headaches.

• After the almost boiling (1 gallon) water cools slightly, add 4 drops of peppermint and 4 drops of rosemary essential oils. Steam for 10 minutes, pat dry.

*Oily Skin Sauna

• Add 6 drops of lavender essential oil to a gallon of almost boiling water. Steam for 10 minutes, pat dry.

Lavender is very beneficial for acne-prone skin, as it normalizes the secretions of sebaceous glands.

*Sauna for Blemished Skin

• Add 12 drops of bergamot essential oil to a gallon of almost boiling water. Blemished skin should not steam for longer than 5 minutes. Pat dry.

Bergamot oil is primarily used for its antiseptic properties. In a facial steam it reduces redness, irritations and puffiness.

*Ultimate Spa-Type Facial Steam for all skin types

• Add 2 drops each of bergamot, geranium, lavender and clary sage essential oils. Steam for 3 minutes, then pat dry.

This steam will promote peace of mind and relaxation, while cleaning and toning the skin.

Facing your Face Care, natural recipes for facial cleansing

Here are some recipes for the first step in facial care, cleansing. Tomato Rub for normal to oily skin:

• Take a slice of ripe tomato and rub it over your face and neck. Allow the juices to soak into your skin for five minutes. The mild acid in the tomato will bring dirt and impurities to the skins surface. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water, pat dry.

Daily Cleanser for normal skin:

• Take 2 sprigs of fresh thyme & crush it (fresh is best, but you can use 1/2 TBS. dried thyme) and mix in a bowl with 2 tsp. of crushed fennel seed. Pour 1/2 cup of boiling water over the fennel seeds and thyme. Add the juice of 1/2 a lemon and allow to steep for 15 minutes. Strain the mixture (called an infusion), throw out the plant material, and store the liquid in a jar in the refrigerator. To use, simply dab onto face and neck with a cotton ball.

As an infusion, fennel seeds can be gently cleansing and toning. They help reduce puffiness and superficial irritations. Thyme is used in antiseptic preparations and is a good natural astringent. This recipe is very gentle, so it makes a great daily morning cleanser. Oily skin cleanser:

• 2 TBS apple cider vinegar mixed with 2 TBS distilled water. Being careful to avoid the eyes, apply mixture to the face with a cotton ball. Rinse with tepid water and pat dry.

This is a fast, effective way to remove dirt and residue from the face. If you have normal skin, use this recipe only for those times when you are short on time and need a quick cleansing. For oily skin, use daily, or alternate with another recipe. As you begin to experiment with the various recipes, you will learn which recipes you prefer and what combination works best for your skin care. Everyday Cleanser:

• Take 1/2 cup of old fashioned (not quickoats) oatmeal and grind it in the blender or food processor. In a small bowl combine 2 TBS. honey, 1/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk, and the ground oatmeal. Mix thoroughly until it has the consistency of paste. Smooth over face and neck, then leave on for 15 minutes. When time is up rinse off with warm water and pat dry. This can be used daily, but it is best as a morning treatment.

Oatmeal is a gentle exfoliator that removes dead surface cells and residue. It helps restore the skin's moisture. Also, it can be used as a mild cleanser instead of soap. Yogurt softens the skin, and honey is a natural humectant (meaning it draws moisture to itself). Altogether, these ingredients make this this a great daily cleansing moisturizer. Facial cleanser for everyone:

• Mix 1/4 cup liquid Castile soap (this is the purest, most mild, natural soap available), 1/8 cup distilled water, 3-4 drops of chamomile essential oil, and 1 TBS. orange or lemon juice. Place in jar and store in the refrigerator. This should last about 1-2 months. Wash your face with this daily, rinse with tepid water, pat dry and complete your routine care.

Next post will give recipes for step two of the facial care regimen, toners. Bibliography: The Beauty Bible by Paula Begoun, The Herbal Home Spa, by Greta Breedlove, Nature's Beauty Kit, by Deb Carpenter, and Natural Beauty at Home, by Janice Cox.

Facing the Facts about Face Care

While beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, it is also in the TIME of the beholder. The definition, or what constitutes classic beauty, changes with the years. The ancient Greeks believed that the facial proportions needed to be harmonious for a woman to be beautiful, while the Victorians favored thin lips, and Rubens portrayed goddesses with double chins and fat cheeks.
Today, per our magazine models, we seem to favor thin bodied women with full, lush lips.

Throughout history women have gone to great lengths to achieve the standard, "beautiful" face. Elizabethan women went so far as to cover their faces in lead, achieving the coveted ghostly pallor of the beautiful face. Roman women smeared wax on wrinkles and mercury based lotions on freckles and spots, to maintain the beautiful face.

No matter what you, or the magazines, feel is the face of beauty today, women all over want clean, healthy skin. You can cover your hands and feet, camouflage your skin in clothing, but your face remains out there for all to see. Too many late nights, exposure to weather, stress, and poor diet all affect the sensitive skin of the face. To maintain health and beauty it is important to care for yourself and your skin. Pampering yourself is the key to putting your best face forward!

There are five steps to a perfect face. 1. Cleanse. This will rid your skin of dirt, makeup and oils. 2. Steam. This opens the pores, increases blood circulation in the facial capillaries and deep cleanses the skin. 3. Mask or Peel. This will further remove residue deep in the pores. It also nourishes and replenishes the skin with essential vitamins and minerals. 4. Tone. Toner tightens the pores and prepares the skin to accept the moisturizer.
5. Moisturize. This replenishes the skin with fluid and gives it a fine coat of protective film.

Here are some more tips for face care, then the next post will offer some more recipes!

• Remember to ALWAYS clean your face BEFORE doing a steam.
• Pull your hair back so you can get right up to the hairline.
• ALWAYS wear sunscreen when outside.
• Don't forget to moisturize above your upper lip and the area above the cheekbones, but below the eyes. These areas tend to be particularly lacking in moisture.
• When applying peels and masks, use a dark towel to avoid staining.
• Steam your skin once a week for the benefits mentioned in the steps of facial care.
• Be cautious when steaming. You do NOT want to scald the skin. If the steam is burning the inside of your nose, wait a few minutes for the water to cool down, the try again.
• Eating more whole grains, eggs, leafy greens and broccoli will naturally increase vitamin E in your system. Vitamin E promotes skin elasticity.
• Eating more spinach, cantaloupe, carrots and pumpkin will increase the amount of vitamin A in your diet, which lubricates and heals the skin.
• Don't forget to cleanse and care for your neck, just as you care for your face. Neck skin ages the same way the skin on your face does.