Teaching Tuesday- Safflower and Sunflower Oils

Today we are looking more in depth at Sunflower and Safflower Oils. They are both quite similar in many ways, and both are to be included in a healthy diet. They both can also be used for skin care and in many cosmetic formulations.

Sunflower Oil (Helianthus annuus) oil is extracted from the seeds of the sunflower.  Healthy, natural sunflower oil is produced from oil type sunflower seeds. It is light in taste and appearance, and it supplies more Vitamin E than any other vegetable oil. It is a combination of monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats with low saturated fat levels. It is made up of predominately linoleic acid (48-74%), monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid oleic acid (14-40%), palmitic acid (4-9%) and stearic acid (1-7%).  There are three versions of sunflower produced, NuSun, linoleic, and high oleic sunflower oil. The variations in the unsaturated fatty acid profile are factors of both the growing climate and of the genetics of the plant itself.  But all sunflower oil has high vitamin E content, though.

High Oleic Sunflower Oil is great for your health. A diet that is rich in high-oleic-acid sunflower oil positively impacts cholesterol, triglycerides, and even factor VII coagulant activity. So you should substitute foods rich in saturated fat with foods that are rich in high-oleic-acid sunflower oil and margarine. This oil also is great for diets that are aimed at the prevention of heart disease. The versatility of this healthy oil is recognized by cooks internationally. Sunflower oil is valued for its light taste, its frying performance, and its health benefits. It has a very neutral taste, and provides excellent stability without hydrogenation. The high oleic sunflower oil offers a trans free oil solution for all the health conscious. It is appropriate for many applications, including baking, spray coating oils for cereal, crackers and dried fruit. It is also used in non-dairy creamers and many types of frying, as well as other uses. Since the patent on high oleic sunflower seed and oil has expired, more companies are now getting involved in producing and selling this version of the oil.

While Sunflower oil is used primarily in the food industry, it does have  applications in the cosmetic industry as well.  One of its best attributes is that it helps form a seal on the skin that retains moisture while allowing the skin to breath.  An interesting study found that when sunflower oil was used as a treatment for low birth weight pre-term infants, the infection rates were lowered  by 41%.  The theory being, that pre-mature babies have underdeveloped skin, which leaves them more susceptible to infections, and that the sunflower oil created a much needed barrier on the skin.


Many of the characteristics noted for sunflower oil also apply to safflower oil. Safflower is another species of the Asteraceae, the sunflower family. Like sunflower oil, safflower oil is polyunsaturated, therefore it is also useful in lessening the threat of arteriosclerosis. Safflower is also an annual crop. It is  native to the Old World, and the genus occurs naturally in the Mediterranean region, northeastern Africa, and southwestern Asia to India. There are positively identified archaeological records of safflower from 4000-year-old Egyptian tombs, including a find of single safflower flowers wrapped in willow leaves, that were placed with a mummy from the 18th Dynasty (ca. 1600 B.C.).

The flowers of the Safflower, Carthamus tinctorius, are pale yellow to red-orange, tubular disk florets. Since ancient times, orange pigments have been obtained from safflower. In fact, the name safflower may be derived from another plant, saffron, which was a precious, and very expensive, yellowish dye that was obtained from the stigmas of freshly opened flowers. The name Carthamus is the latinized form of the Arabic word, quartum or gurtum, which refers to the pigment color. Dyes were produced from fresh flowers, which were collected and dried.




Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius) comes from the seeds of an herbaceous thistle like annual flower.  It is a polyunsaturated oil that is similar to sunflower oil in both nutrient values and shelf life.  Safflower and Sunflower oils are both relatively unstable when exposed to high heat, light or oxygen.  And both are good to use in low or no heat formulas.  Safflower oil contains the monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid oleic acid (78.9%), unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid linoleic (11%), palmitic acid (6.2%) and linolenic (.02%). It is a drying oil that is used in white, and light-colored. oil-based paints instead of linseed oil. It does not yellow with age like linseed oil and other similar oils. And safflower was used as a substitute for more precious oils. Likewise, safflower pigment was used as a substitute for, or an adulterant of saffron for many things, such as the coloring agent in cheeses. Safflower was particularly important as an oil and pigment in southern Asia, Iran, Afghanistan, and India, where early carpets (from these regions) used safflower dye. When it arrived in China, around 200-300 A.D. the dyes became important there as well. Safflower oil was considered inferior to sesame oil in China, but nonetheless it was, and is, mixed with sesame and cottonseed oil, in the preparation of Japanese tempura. Also, the Japanese cosmetic, beni, is made from safflower. Even French chalk was mixed with safflower in order to make a cosmetic. To this day, saffron rice is made with safflower in India and Afghanistan,  and that is what gives it the interesting orange color. Moreover, for centuries safflower has been used commonly in potions and folk medicines throughout the Old World.

Safflower cultivation is now widespread, and you can see many Safflower fields across the dry areas of the southwestern United States, because safflower is fairly drought resistant and salt tolerant. Each plant forms one to two dozen heads of flowers, which are quickly converted into full heads of fruits, because the flowers are self-compatible and self-pollinated. The presence of honey bees can also increase the production. The oil content of the achenes is frequently 30-45%, and the protein content can be as high as 24%. After the oil is expressed, the safflower seedcake can, and is often used for livestock feed. Then the remaining plant, if it's not too spiny, can be used for green fodder or silage. Making this a completely useful plant.


The Safflower oil is a light, odorless oil, and it works well for many cosmetic applications. Just like sunflower oil, safflower oil has a high vitamin E content as well, though not as high as the sunflower. Safflower oil is especially great for massage, either by itself, or when blended with other oils. And, because of its high burn point, it can also be used for stone massages. It makes a wonderful carrier oil for essential oils, and if you use the high oleic safflower oil, you will get a longer shelf life.  Just as sunflower oil, safflower oil acts as a protective barrier on the skin, while softening and relieving dryness. It is a wonderful oil to include in cosmetic preparations, as well as in your diet.

Wednesday's Installment of Teaching Tuesday- Pain

There are two types of pain, or more accuratyely, two ways that pain is categorized and described. There is Acute Pain and Chronic Pain.

Acute pain is usually a result of inflammation and/or injury, and usually is a soft tissue injury. This pain is immediate and has a short duration. Acute pain is a normal response to injury and some disease processes, and its cause can usually be diagnosed and treated without too much difficulty. A sprained ankle, a stubbed toe, a pulled muscle, and the like are all examples of instances where acute pain would be expected.

Chronic pain, on the other hand, is a continuous pain. It is persistent, usually lasting for more than 3 months, which is well beyond the time of normal healing. It can range from mild to severe, and can last from months to years, or even a lifetime. The cause of chronic pain is not always evident, yet it can be a result of a disease process. Often the treatment plan takes a long while to determine and sometimes it is inadequate, in the sufferer's estimation if not the physicians'. For this reason, as much as the cause of the pain, chronic pain can have a devastating impact on people’s lives. Many people with back injuries, arthritis, and various disease processes suffer from chronic pain.

Why are we discussing pain types? Well, just like you need to know what Essential Oil (EO) to sniff when you are using aromatherapy, you need to know what type of pain you have, in order to whip up or purchase a balm or massage oil with an Essential Oil blend meant to relieve your pain.

Several EO's have analgesic qualities and several have anti-inflammatory properties,  but only a few possess both of these qualities. Some EO's are good for soft tissue pain, while others are better for joint pain.  It is important to know what the EO's in your blend are meant for and what the source of your pain is, so that you can get the greatest bang for your buck and the most relief possible. It is also important to know what other oils, called carrier oils, are used in your product and why. Some oils are more readily absorbed by the skin, therefore they will help to deliver the EO's deeper into the skin, faster, and more adequately than others. Emu oil is one such oil, aside from helping the skin's tissue to heal, it helps to draw other ingredients down into the skin so that they are more effective. Among other things, Peppermint EO has the properties of an analgesic, a topical antiseptic, an anti-inflammatory, and a vasoconstrictor, therefore it would be an excellent choice for mixing with emu oil when needing something for pain accompanied with tissue swelling. Of course there are other Eo's that are considered  to be analgesics and some others that anti-inflammatory in nature, so some study is quite important when making your choice(s).


A lesser known stimulant is Turmeric. A native of South Asia, Turmeric has been used for thousands of years as an herb in cooking and as medicine. The yellow powder is an ingredient in many curries. Current research indicates that Turmeric has a strong antioxidant property that makes it an herb that may prevent and assist disease and aging issues. It belongs to the ginger family and the powder and essential oil is obtained from the thick rhizome (root). In traditional Chinese and Indian medicine, Turmeric is used to treat flatulence, colic, abdominal pain, liver disorder, menstrual issues, hemorrhage, bruises, sores and toothache as well as chest and shoulder pain. Because of its analgesic, anti-arthritis, anti-inflammatory, choleric, digestive and rubefacient properties, aromatherapists use Turmeric for arthritis, rheumatism, digestive problems and liver congestion. Research has shown that turmeric can stop the proliferation of laboratory strains of melanoma. (Read Farida Irani 2008 article "Turmeric" in "Aromatherapy Journal," the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA) e-Journal.) Turmeric is said to be non-toxic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing.

Teaching Tuesdays - Exotic Oils Cont.- Jojoba Oil

We are continuing with exotic oils, and today is all about jojoba oil, botanically known as Simmondsia chinensis, which is not really an oil at all, but a wax. Pronounced ho-ho-ba, this oil has been used  for centuries. Nicknamed Goat Nut, the jojoba is a member if the box family of shrubs, and can grow to be seven feet tall. It is a deep golden color, and has a mild scent. It is suspected that the Native American Indians of our Southwest not only used the extracted  oil from the seeds of the [desert] jojoba shrub for wound treatments and hair and skin moisturizers, but as a food source as well.

The jojoba shrub grows in desert like, arid climates throughout the world, although it is native to North America. Its seeds are crushed to extract the odorless, hypo-allergenic, stable, natural oil that we call jojoba. Jojoba actually is used to refer to both the plant and the extract. The oil from the seeds is unique, in that it is not really an oil, but rather a pure liquid ester.  The difference between an oil and an ester is small, yet quite large when speaking of properties. Vegetable oils have several alcohol groups on their molecules, and some have forked molecules, which will eventually oxidize, becoming rancid. Jojoba though, has only one alcohol group, and it is a straight chain molecule, therefore it isn't subject to oxidizing, and, in fact it is an anti-oxidant, so it will not turn rancid. It can, however, be affected adversely by sunlight, so it needs to be kept in brown glass bottles, in the dark, or in closed metal cans.

Sebaceous glands are microscopic glands in the skin which secrete sebum, an oily, waxy matter, which lubricates the skin and the hair of mammals, keeping them soft and moist. In humans, these glands are primarily found on the face and the scalp, but are present, to some degree, throughout the skin, except for that on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. 

Jojoba oil is unique for a couple of reasons. First of all, jojoba oil is chemically almost identical to spermaceti (sperm) oil, the pure ester found in the head of the sperm whale. Up until it became restricted, this oil was prized, and frequently used in high temperature lubrication, cosmetics and as car transmission lubricants. Jojoba makes the perfect substitution for this oil, and, as such, effectively helps to save the whales. 

Secondly, jojoba oil closely matches the molecular structure of human sebum, therefore it can easily and quickly penetrate the skin and the scalp, without leaving an oily residue. Additionally, as it mimics the actions of human sebum, it softens, lubricates, and protects the skin and scalp in much the same way that our natural sebum does. Its soothing properties are known to stop many skin issues and to offer protection from premature wrinkling of the skin, as well as premature aging caused by exposure to ultra violet radiation. It is a non-occlusive oil, sinking into the skin and hair follicles, offering extra moisturization. It is considered an excellent emollient, but it is called a "dry emollient", meaning that it should not be used at rates greater than 25% in skin or hair care, as it may feel too dry at a higher level. Because it will not evaporate like a water-soluble moisturizers, jojoba oil will provide moisturizing all day long.  Because of its closeness to the skins' sebum, it makes an excellent oil for treating conditions like psoriasis and acne, and is good for all skin types, especially sensitive and oily skin. It helps to unclog the skins' pores, remove embedded grime, and it also restores and conditions hair. 

When used directly on the face for routine care, you should use amounts lower than 10 drops. Higher amounts, those over 10 drops, can lend a shine to the skin. With this in mind, you may want to be more conservative with it during the day, say 6 drops at a time, which should actually balance oil production and reduce shine at the same time. Then, at night, before bed, you can apply a higher rate for better, deeper moisturizing, without worrying about shine.

Most manufacturers say that jojoba oil has a two-three year shelf life, but this can be well surpassed if it is stored out of sunlight. It does not become rancid 

or loose its antioxidants, even after long periods of storage. It can, however,  become cloudy and solidify as the temperature drops. But this is a normal process that occurs because of the hardening of the fats and waxes, and it will become stable when it gets to be room temperature, or close to it. 


*Check the References tab at the top of the page for the bibliography and references for this post.. 

Teaching Tuesdays- How and When to make and Infusion

An infusion is simply a "tea". Every time you brew up a cup of Earl Gray, you are making an infusion. The act of pouring hot water over plant material makes an infusion. The stronger you desire the infusion, the more plant material you need to use and/or the longer you need to let it steep, just like when you are making tea! A decoction is a also a tea, just a more potent one. Decoctions are used for densely fibrous herbs, barks, and roots, because they can  "cook" longer. In doing so, they release their beneficial ingredients into the water, yielding a more concentrated extraction of the active ingredients.  

So, aside from wanting a nice cup of chamomile tea before bedtime,  when would you want ,or need, to make an infusion or a decoction?  If you are into using herbal remedies, you will often need to make infusions, either to drink, or to use in a poultice. Most decoctions, while not used for drinking, are frequently used in poultices.

Aside from this instance, if you make your own soaps, balms, lotions etc., infusions are a great way to incorporate the healing properties of  herbs, plants, spices, and/or shrubs into your product(s).  While essential oils will certainly add (much) desired properties, infusions can accomplish the same end result in a (much) less costly manner. In fact, I would venture to say that there are times when an infusion would be a more appropriate choice than the essential oil (EO), especially with regard to infant/child products.

So how do you do it? To make a fairly strong infusion, take 1/4 of a cup of the dried herb, or herb mix, of your choice, and  cover with one cup of boiling water. Then cover the pot, so that the vapors will be held inside while it steeps. Leave this sit for at least 30 minutes, then strain it, and either drink it, or pour it into a dark bottle. This is really a make it as you need it thing, and it should be used either that same day, or the next. Putting it in the refrigerator will help if you wish to keep it another day.

For some products, and in certain poultices, making an oil-based infusion is preferable to using a water-based one. You can accomplish this in much the same manner as you do the tea, except that you will not want to boil the oil. Different oils have different burning temperatures, so, while I can't give you a specific degree to heat the oil to, it is only necessary to slightly warm the oil. If you are using a microwave to heat oils, make sure that you only heat in short, 30 second, bursts, and that you exercise extreme caution. Hot oil can cause severe burns.

Put your choice of  plant material down into a jar, but before you add the warm oil, take a pestle or a spoon and lightly bruise the plant material. This slight maceration of the plant will  help to initiate the infusion process. If you are making a poultice, follow that specific recipe's instruction for the amounts, but if you are making it for use in your own products, you can achieve a fairly concentrated infusion by using three cups of plant material in about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of  (your choice of) oil. In either case, make sure that the oil completely covers the plant material, increasing the oil if necessary. Once you are sure you have enough oil to fully cover the plant material, cap the jar tightly and shake it for minute or two. Put the jar somewhere that is dark and cool to steep. It should not go into the fridge, at this point.

For one month, once a day, you will need to take the jar out and give it a good shake for a minute or two. When you are finished infusing, strain the solids from the oil. Since these aren't good for anything, throw them away and bottle the oil. Store the (infused) oil out of direct sunlight,  in a cool place. While refrigeration is not mandatory, it is acceptable, and in some instances, even preferred.. Depending upon the oil your chose, it should remain good for a year to a year and a half. Because of the strength of this infusion, you can further dilute it with more carrier oil, and still retain the beneficial properties of the plant material.

Of course, if you don't have a month to wait, you can infuse an oil in significantly less time, however it won't have the same strength, and it will need to be used without being diluted. Since it is difficult to estimate the quantity of properties being infused into the plant material, over what period of time, I suggest that you leave the infusion to steep for at least a full day, preferably two.

More Rubs, More Scrubs

As you have probably figured out by now, you can use a great many different kitchen and grocery products in your health and beauty regimen. Oatmeal, sugar, ground nuts, and ground citrus peel all make gently abrasive ingredients for scrubs. Experiment to see which feels best for you and which best suits your skin type. When in doubt go with oatmeal, as it is very gentle and helps to soften the skin while gently and lightly abrading, as well as being an agent that helps to reduce itching. As for the carrier oils, which you use can depend upon availability (just about everyone keeps olive oil in the kitchen) or you can go with one that is perfect for your skin type and/or need.

OILS

Apricot kernal oil rehydrates the skin and is great for facial scrubs or massages. It restores the skin's glow and softens the skin. It is a light oil and is great for mixing with heavier oils. Avocado oil is great for very dry skin. Even though it is very heavy, it is easily absorbed into the skin, so use this if you have skin that has a hard time accepting oils. This oil is very nourishing, but the shelf life is short. Hazelnut oil is easily absorbed by the skin and is great for those with oily skin. Jojoba oil is on the expensive side, but it is very similar to the oil our own skin produces so it is easily absorbed. Another plus is that it naturally contains vitamin E, which helps to preserve it and give it a longer shelf life than many other oils. Olive oil (extra virgin) is very heavy so you may choose to mix it with a lighter oil. It is disinfecting and healing, and it is great for chapped, dry skin. Safflower oil is light and very easily absorbed by the skin. Sunflower oil is a fairly light oil. It helps the skin to maintain its natural level of moisture while softening it. Sweet almond oil is a mid weight oil and a great all purpose oil. It can be used by all skin types and it relieves itchiness.

CREAMY FACIAL

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/8 cup honey

4 Tbs. powdered milk

2 drops rosemary EO

Heat the honey, remove from heat, then add in the mayo, powdered milk and rosemary essential oil. Stir well. When cool enough apply to face and neck. Leave on for 15 minutes then rinse off with tepid water and pat skin dry. This must be used when and as it is made.

CORNMEAL FACE SCRUB

5 drops Pink Grapefruit EO 5 drops Patchouli EO 5 drops Lavender EO 1/4 cup cornmeal 1/4 cup plain yogurt Mix ingredients together and refrigerate for a couple of hours before using. Store any unused portions in the refrigerator.

GINGER BODY SCRUB

2 drops Ginger EO 4 drops Peppermint EO 3 drops Rosemary EO 1/3 Cup your choice of a Carrier Oil (like sweet almond oil) 1/4 Cup Cornmeal 1/4 Cup Dead Sea or European Spa salts Mix the salt and the cornmeal together. Warm the carrier oil, mix in the essential oils, then mix all with dry ingredients. Use this in the shower or standing in the tub, but be cautious to not slip in the oil. Apply in circular motions, working from the extremities inward, working towards the center of the body and the heart. Rinse with warm water, then pat dry. This, as with most scrubs, is best used in the mornings because of its invigorating effects.

Let's Get Carried Away!

Since essential oils cannot be applied directly to the skin in their pure state, they must be diluted in base oils, otherwise known as "carrier oils". These oils are rich in fatty acids, vitamins and moisturizing nutrients. Carrier oils contain healing substances that make the skin soft, as well as elastic. They also provide lubrication for the hands when massaging against the skin. The oils can be added directly to bath water for a skin nourishing soak, used in hair treatments, or in many other skin applications. Natural bath and body designers utilize various mixtures of carrier oils to produce some magnificent feeling oils. For the most part, carrier oils are easily substituted for each other in any recipe. So, once you understand their properties, feel free to experiment to find which oils you orefer and what works best for you in your recipes! Sweet almond oil- (12-14months) light, rich in oleic and linoleic fatty acids, for all skin types; softens skin, relieves itching, has restructuring properties. Also great for cooking, especially stir fry as it has a high flash point and is cholesterol free. Apricot kernal oil- (1yr) light, high in linoleic and oleic acids, great as a massage oil, especially facial massages; rehydrates, restores skin's glow, high in vitamin A and B Avocado oil- (8-10 months) great for dry skin; easily absorbed, plumps up prematurely aged skin, natural vitamin B1, B2, D, E and A *not very stable, keep in cool, dark place Borage oil- (3-6 months) rich in linolenic acid; treats eczema and psoriasis, has anti-aging properties Calendula oil- ( ) heals cracked skin and rashes Carrot Seed oil- ( )reduces premature aging, itching and scarring, rejuvenates, restores skin's elasticity Coconut oil- (10-14 months unrefined, 2-3 yrs. refined) excellent for cracked or brittle skin, helps retain skin's moisture Evening Primrose oil- (6months) high in essential fatty acids, great for dry skin, treats acne, rosacea, exzema and signs of aging, has anti-inflammatory and antioxident effects *Do not heat this oil, apply to recipes after the heating process- Keep refrigerated to extend the shelf life. Grapeseed oil- (12-24months) odorless, easily absorbed, great for full body massages, Grapeseed is especially useful for skin types that do not absorb oils too well, and it does not leave a greasy feeling. Wonderful for those with skin sensitivities because of its natural non-allergenic properties. Hazelnut oil- (3 months) gentle, non-greasy, good for extremely dry skin, easily absorbed *best kept refrigerated, is food quality Jojoba oil- (24-36 months) antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, an emollient, very hydrating *this is actually a liquid plant wax, not an oil. It becomes cloudy as the temperature drops, this is normal and does not affect the quality. Macadamia nut oil- (10-12 months) one of the best regenerative oils available, high in monounsaturated fatty acids, closely resembles sebum (the oil naturally produced by ones skin to help protect it), a protective oil with a high absorption rate, has been successfully used as a healing oil for scars, sunburns, minor wounds and other irritations. Olive oil- (6-8 months) disinfecting, healing, excellent to sooth chapped skin, relieves itching of the skin and the effects of stings or burns, is good for muscular or joint liniments *store in the dark, has a naturally greenish tint, is great for babies Rose Hip oil- (12-18 months) High in Vitamin A which helps to delay the effects of skin aging, assists with cell regeneration, and promotes collagen and elastin levels to increase, also contains a high amount of essential fatty acids and Vitamin E, is rich in linoleic and linolenic acids, used successfully to treat stretch marks, UV damage from overexposure to the sun, scars from surgery, burns, and acne, eczema, psoriasis, wrinkles and premature skin aging, dermatitis, sunburns, age spotsand even brittle nails and dry and damaged hair * This oil should be kept in the refrigerator, in a dark bottle to prevent breakdown Safflower oil- ( 12 months) high in oleic acid, light texture, easily absorbed by the skin, highly moisturizing, deeply soothing *Safflower oil stores well under any conditions, but high heat will decrease the shelf life. Sesame oil- (12 months) natural sunscreen, pleasant, nutty aroma, but one that will not interfere with recipe scents, this oil is naturally active in vitamins A and E and essential proteins. Sunflower oil- (6 months) possesses large amounts of fatty acids, high in vitamin E and folic acid, slightly oily on the skin, lightweight, softens the skin, helps to maintain the natural moisture level of the skin, but has slow absorption rate by the skin *refrigerate to extend shelf life.

Wheat Germ oil- (6-8 months) this oil promotes skin cell formation, is great for nourishing and rejuvenating dry, mature, dehydrated skin, and reducing scars, stretch marks, sunburns, and damaged skin, has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects, is a natural preservative, helps to prevent rancidity, and prolongs the shelf life of cosmetic products. Wheat Germ Oil has been shown to be effective for treating dry, cracked skin, eczema, psoriasis, prematurely aged skin, stretch marks, dull complexion, tired and overexerted muscles, sunburn and burns, and scars. **Wheat Germ oil is a very sensitive oil that will degrade quickly when exposed to extremes in temperature fluctuation, oxidization and light. Refrigeration is highly recommended. Because of its unrefined nature, this oil is very dark in color and heavy in odor. It should not be used, either internally or externally, by those with wheat or gluten allergies.

Now that you have the base oils, the next post will deal with which essential oils to use for what!