Facing Some Face Care Challenges

Throughout history women have gone to great lengths to achieve the standard, "beautiful" face. Elizabethan women covered their faces in lead to achieve the coveted ghostly pallor that was considered beautiful in that time. Roman women use to smear wax on their wrinkles, and used mercury based lotions on their freckles and spots, in order to maintain their idea of a beautiful face.

The ancient Greeks believed that facial proportions needed to be harmonious for a woman to be beautiful, while the Victorians favored thin lips, and Rubens went for double chins and fat cheeks (many of us long for those days I think! lol).

Clearly the idea and the standard of what constitutes a beautiful face changes with time. While our society, even just a few short years ago, favored the thin bodied, with full, lush lips, today there is a large push toward more "normal" sized women, with proportionate features. However, no matter what anyone in particular identifies as beautiful, one thing is for certain, the key is clean, healthy skin. 

Everyone, men and women alike, desire clean and healthy skin, and feel better when they have it.  You can cover your hands and feet, and camouflage the skin in clothing, but you cannot hide your face. It is always out there for all to see. And, it is always out there taking the brunt of all the elements. Additionally, poor diet, poor sleep patterns, smoking, drinking alcohol, stress,and exposure to weather all affect the sensitive skin of the face. 

Of course good habits and good health are the first key to good skin care, after all beauty (and health) comes from the inside out. But still, you can have issues, no matter your age. Actually, about 25% of adults  suffer from acne, and most of theses are women. Unfortunately, the hormonal fluctuations that females endure from the teen years to menopause, trigger an increase in the production of sebum. Sebum comes from the sebaceous glands in the skin, and is the skins way to lubricate itself. It is our body's oil. When there is excess sebum it can become trapped under the dead skin cells, and block the block the pores. Blocking the pores effectively cuts off the sebum's route to [skin's] surface, which leads to inflammation inside the pores. Then the bacteria that normally lives on the skin  heads to that site to feed on the trapped oil. This is when a pimple or zit pops up.  

So what can you do to ensure good skin and combat the elements that conspire against your face?

First of all we need to review the basics. Realistically, there are five steps that should be in your routine skin care plan. 

1. Cleanse. This will rid your skin of dirt, makeup and oils. For this step, you should consider using a good soap adn keep the detergent bars on the shelf. In case you are new to this blog, you should know that almost every bar of soap in the big box store is actually a detergent bar. If you have to choose from commercially prepared soaps, at least choose one designed for sensitive skin. For more information on cleansing, as well as some natural recipes, see this post.

Want to make yourself a good cleanser that won't break the bank? Try this one.

2. Steam. Steam opens the skin's pores, increases the blood circulation in the facial capillaries, and deep cleans the skin. For more about steams, including recipes for steams to address various skin conditions, see this post.

3. Mask or Peel. This will further remove residue deep in the pores. It also nourishes and replenishes the skin with essential vitamins and minerals. Need some easy recipes to make masks and peels at home? See this post.

4. Tone. Toners tighten the pores and prepare the skin to accept the moisturizer. For recipes and more details about toners, see this post.

5. Moisturize. This replenishes the skin with fluid and gives it a fine coat of protective film. For recipes and more details, see this post.

Before continuing on I want to review some face care tips that we all would do well to remember;

-ALWAYS clean your face BEFORE doing a steam.

-Pull your hair back so you can get right up to the hairline.

-Should you have a flare up, do not be tempted to over-wash your face. Washing too often can strip the skin of its natural oils, as well as irritate already inflamed skin. Do not think that striping the skin's natural oils will solve your problems, because all it does is stimulate the body to produce more sebum to compensate for its loss.

-Avoid products containing heavy oils, namely petroleum by-products. When choosing makeup, avoid oil based foundations, as these tend to clog pores.

-Always remove makeup by cleansing the face before bed time. As previously stated, be sure to use a gentle cleanser. The more natural, the better.

-ALWAYS wear sunscreen when outside. That means ALWAYS, not just when you go to the beach or pool. Uv rays are always present.

-Don't forget to cleanse and care for your neck just like you care for your face. Neck skin ages the same way that the skin on your face does.

-Don't forget to moisturize above your upper lip and the area above the cheekbones, but below the eyes. These areas tend to be particularly lacking in moisture.

-Steam your skin once a week for the benefits mentioned in the steps of facial care.

-Be cautious when steaming. You do NOT want to scald the skin. If the steam is burning the inside of your nose when you breath in, wait a few minutes for the water to cool down, the try again.

-Eating more whole grains, eggs, leafy greens and broccoli will naturally increase the vitamin E in your system, and vitamin E promotes skin elasticity.

-Eating more spinach, cantaloupe, carrots and pumpkin will increase the amount of vitamin A in your diet, which lubricates and heals the skin.

So....since extra washing is not the answer when you have pimples, what else can you do, what will correct the problem? While there may be some cases where only a dermatologist consult is appropriate, certainly there are many instances where a small amount of time and an herbal remedy is the key. In fact, there are several herbs and essential oils that have been used for many years to treat skin conditions. The following is only a partial list.

Bergamot oil is primarily used for its antiseptic properties. In a facial steam it reduces redness, irritations and puffiness.

Burdock root is a herb that contains antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It too has traditionally been used to treat acne, as well as other skin conditions.  

Chaparral, also called “stinkweed,” is often used to treat inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, herpes, psoriasis and eczema. 

Lavender is very beneficial for acne-prone skin, as it normalizes the secretions of sebaceous glands.

Neem oil has traditionally been used to treat all kinds of skin conditions. It possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, and is said to be quite   effective against acne. 

In beauty treatments, rose oil is effective for treating wrinkles, puffiness and dry skin. Rosewater has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and toning properties, and makes a great steam for any skin condition.

Witch hazel is an old, and well used treatment for psoriasis, eczema, and cracked or blistered skin. Witch hazel reduces swelling, has antiseptic properties, and even though it is a strong anti-oxidant and astringent, it also acts to soothe the skin, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. It is much more skin friendly than alcohol, which is often present in commercial astringents and toners. For more about astringents and toners, their definitions and recipes that you can make at home for skin problems, see this old post.

Yellow Dock Root also has minerals that control swelling and irritation in blocked pores.

Rosemary, sandalwood, tea tree, red thyme, green and blue yarrow, ylang ylang, galbanum, geranium, and helichrysum are all essential oils that would be beneficial in creating acne treatments.

While the following essential oils would benefit preparations for oily skin; fennel, grapefruit, juniper, bergamot (make sure its furo free), myrtle, patchouli, petitgrain, red thyme, rosewood, tea tree. 

 In fact, if you look through older posts, I am sure that you will find some things mentioned that I have forgotten to include here. Generally speaking, there are several good herbs and essential oils that you can use to benefit various skin conditions. So study up, then have fun experimenting! 

Here are a few more recipes. And some more. 

**Essential oils are a wonderful treatment modality. However, they need to be treated with caution and respect. Unless you are educated in their usage, please seek out a professional. Trying to formulate your own recipes with these oils when you are unaware of their proper implications, usage rates, or contraindications can be quite dangerous. So please be safe! 

Make it Yourself Monday- Moisturizers

As discussed previously, there are five steps to having the perfect skin care regimen (see this post if you missed it!). So today I thought I'd offer recipes for the final step in skin care, moisturizing. While you may have many hand lotion recipes, do you have some specific for the face? Well now you will!


Aloe and Rosewater Moisturizer
 1/2 cup olive oil
2 Tablespoons aloe vera gel
3 Tablespoons beeswax (grated or granules)
3 Tablespoons lanolin
4 Tablespoons rosewater *see how to make your own below the recipe instructions.


Blend the olive oil with the aloe vera and leave it in a small bowl while you melt the beeswax and lanolin in a small saucepan. Make sure that you use a low heat and stir constantly or you will burn it. Once it is melted, remove it from the heat and slowly pour in the olive oil and aloe mixture, while continuously stirring. Add the rosewater and mix well, then pour it all into a blender and blend until it is very smooth. When it is at the proper consistency, pour it into a jar or jars and place in the refrigerator. As it cools it will solidify. You may use it and place a lid on any left overs once it is completely cooled. Since this recipe has water and does not have any preservative, it should be stored in the refrigerator and used within two weeks. 


Rosewater
Rosewater is a byproduct of rose essential oil, but can also be made by distilling fresh rose petals in water. Many roses are sprayed with chemicals to enhance their colors and increase longevity, so it is extremely important that you make sure that the roses you use are chemical free.


Take one cup of fresh rose petals and place into a bowl. Then cover with one cup of boiling, distilled water. Let this steep for a half hour, then strain the petals from the liquid, reserving the liquid and pouring into a glass jar. refrigerate the glass jar until use. *Again, because this is made with water and without any preservative, it needs to be stored in the refrigerator until use, and should be used within a few weeks time.  




Cucumber Cold Cream
2 small cucumbers, peeled and halved
1 cup lanolin
1/4 cup almond or apricot kernel oil
1/2 cup boiling, distilled water




Place the cucumber into a blender and blend until it is completely liquefied, then slowly add in the boiling water and set aside to cool. Melt the lanolin over low heat, in a saucepan. Once melted, remove from the heat and, while stirring constantly, gradually fold in the almond or apricot kernel oil. Then strain the cucumber pulp through a cheesecloth or very fine strainer, reserving the liquid. Gradually add the cucumber liquid into the lanolin and oil mixture, while continuing to stir. Once completely mixed together, place in a small glass or a plastic jar, and store in the refrigerator. Again, since this contains no preservatives, keep it in the fridge and use it with 2-3 weeks.


This really comes out like an old fashioned cold cream, and it is one that is perfect for cleansing sensitive skin, aging skin and damaged skin. It is very refreshing, and the cucumbers provide a mild astringent property, while the lanolin, which is more like a wax than an oil, will absorb water and hold that moisture near the skin. This is really a great, dual purpose product! 


No matter what you use, it is important to utilize a moisturizer in your daily skin care routine. It is the final step, the one that all the other steps prepared the way for. This step replenishes and protects the skin, so USE a moisturizer!   

Teaching Tuesday-Toners and Astringents

Last week I was asked to recommend products that would help to form the base of a good facial cleansing program. So guess what today's post is all about? You got it, face care! 


It has been a few years since we've discussed it in depth, so I will begin by reiterating that there are five steps to the perfect facial skin care regimen. Number one, you must cleanse the skin properly to rid it of makeup, dirt and excess oil see this post for recipes for non-soap cleansers. Number two, is to steam.  A good steam [which could be just a good hot, in the shower steam] opens the pores and increases the blood circulation in the facial capillaries, as well as deep cleansing the skin check this post out. for more about steams. Step three is using a mask or a peel to further remove residue, that which lies deep in the pores. They also nourish the skin, as well as replenishing it with essential vitamins and minerals. For more about masks, look here and here. Step four is the toner. A toner tightens the pores and prepares it to accept the final step, the moisturizer. The moisturizer replenishes the skin with fluid, and also provides it with a fine layer of protection. For more tips on the basics of face care check this old post.

So, let's go back and look at step four, since this is the one that usually trips up most people. Toners are skin care products that work to balance the PH of the skin, close the pores, remove excess dirt that was missed during the cleansing phase, and soothe irritated skin. As previously stated, toners are used after cleansing and before moisturizing. Generally speaking, toners can be used by any of the eight skin type categories (those being; dry, mature, oily, combination, normal, sensitive, sun damaged, and acneic, which means acne.


Astringents and toners are not interchangeable words, or treatments. Even though they are frequently used to mean the same thing by the unknowing, they are really two different skin care products, with two different end purposes. Astringents are similar to toners, in that they are used at the same time in the facial care process, and they both act to close the pores. An astringent though will not necessarily soothe irritated skin. It will, however, remove the dirt, debris, and excess oil that is found in oily or acneic skin types. The rest of the properties of the astringent depend upon the ingredient that is being used for the "astringent" action. 


Commercial astringents rely on alcohol to provide the astringent properties, which tend to excessively dry out the skin, and can even damage skin cells. On the other hand, organic skin care makers, such as myself, utilize witch hazel to create the astringent properties. Witch hazel, botanically known as Hamamelis Virginiana, is a deciduous shrub that is native to eastern North America, from Nova Scotia west to Minnesota, and south to central Florida and eastern Texas. Interestingly, its forked twigs are the preferred diving rod! But for the purpose of skin care, the leaves and the bark are used to create an extract, and you can find it in your local pharmacy, just look for witch hazel. 


Witch hazel has been used medicinally for centuries. Among other things, it is frequently used to treat insect bites, poison ivy, varicose veins, hemorrhoids (and is found in many commercial hemorrhoid preparations) ingrown toenails, to prevent facial sweating, as an aftershave, and as a natural remedy for psoriasis, eczema, and cracked or blistered skin. Witch hazel reduces swelling, has antiseptic properties, and while being a strong anti-oxidant and astringent, also acts to soothe the skin, which makes it very useful in fighting acne. And much more skin friendly than alcohol.


Because of the alcohol, commercial astringents are harsh, and can strip the skin of its natural PH balance, not to mention that they tend to sting when applied. Because historically the majority of astringent products have been,  made with alcohol, astringents have gained a bad reputation in the skin care world. Today, however, there is a movement toward more natural ingredients being included in skin care products. Not just the products that Indie companies make either, but some of the larger companies, seeing the swing toward natural, are beginning to incorporate some natural ingredients into their lines as well. You will still need to be vigilant when choosing a commercial brand, because many times they play up the one natural ingredient they have, only to hide several nasty ones. So make sure that you read the labels and know what those words mean. Remember, not all long words are bad ingredients. For example,  butyrospermum parkii  is the official name for shea butter, so do some research!


Now, back to toners and astringents. Unless you have very oily skin, are having an acne flare up, or are in need of a deep cleansing, you generally do not need an astringent, instead you should choose a toner. Even if you need the astringent, as soon as the need has past, change to a toner. 
That being said, with some Indie formulations you can manage to get a product that will offer the best of both worlds for your skin type. Of course this depends upon the sensitivity of your skin, the severity of your skin problems, and the knowledge level of your Esthetician. So again, research is extremely important.

If you have combination skin, or have problem "spots", you can always use an astringent on just those areas where it is needed, by applying with a q-tip or cotton ball, or you could always use the astringent in the mornings and the the toner at night, or the astringent on odd days and the toner on even ones. However it works best for you. With time and experimentation, you will discover what works best for you. Keep in mind though, the seasons and your activities will also play a part in your skin care needs. The harsh elements of Winter, forced air heating, cold, wind, and lack of sunshine, tend to dry out the skin. So switching to a mild toner is usually most beneficial, regardless of your skin type. 

Here are some recipes for toners and astringents       Here are some for moisturizers